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Posted

I'm looking to climb this beauty at the end of September. Does anyone have some info that isn't available in the Squish guidebook?

 

I would be looking at the NW? Face (5-6 pitches of 5.7)

 

I have heard that the Shannon Creek Road is "convincingly blocked" 10 km from the end.

 

-thanks in advance

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Posted

It takes 3 hours to hike the old road if you start at the point where Shannon Creek road branches off Stawamus-Indian FSR, ie. right at the start.

 

Here is the beta:

51_Habrich.jpg

 

More like 5-6 pitches of class 3-4 bush ledges with short sections of easy rock in between yellaf.gif

Posted

I climbed a much more enjoyable (and sporting!) line that goes up from the "P" in "Pierre" in the photo. It's more direct, is cleaner, is more exposed and is way better climbing than linking up bush ledges. The crux was in the grooves above "Pierre", don't remember the exact line, but it was easy 5th at the bottom and 3rd-4th afterwards. From the roadblock, it'll take between 9 and 11 hours return, depending on your speed. Rapping is easy, one 50m rope is OK.

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