[TR] Mount Washington (NH)- Lion Head Trail 1/21/2004

[Flatlander1]

Climb: Mount Washington (NH)-Lion Head Trail

 

Date of Climb: 1/21/2004

 

Trip Report:

I know it's not located in the Pacific Northwest but thought you might like to hear about it anyway.

 

At 6288 feet many would not consider Mount Washington (NH) a tall mountain but a winter ascent is a serious undertaking. Washington is the third deadliest mountain in the U.S. (130+ deaths) after Denali and Rainier. The climb ascends 4250+ vertical feet in 4.1 miles from the visitor's center at Pinkham Notch. The Lion Head winter trail is not a difficult climb but the weather can be horrendous. Full arctic conditions exist in the alpine zone (above 5000') and three days before leaving my climbing partner Randall and I watched in horror as area experienced record lows and the summit wind chill index dropped to -97F!

 

Climbing buddies of ours thought we were nuts to go but we had booked the time off and decided to go anyway. We drove all night (12.5 hours), picked up more gear (2 hrs), ate breakfast and hiked in to the Harvard Cabin at 3435 feet (2 more hrs). I was so freakin tired would have stabbed Randall with my trekking pole if given the opportunity (it was his idea to drive throught the night). It was only after we arrived at the cabin did we hear about an unfortunate climber who froze to death just two days before we arrived.

 

The following morning we attempted to traverse of a portion of the Presidential Range (4 summits, 18 miles, two days). We got within 1000' of our first summit (Washington) but our goggles froze and the wind knocked me down a couple of times. I couldn't see my feet let alone the route. The wind chill was -42F with the 60 mph wind so we bailed and descended to the bitterly cold cabin. My goggles didn't thaw out until 6:00 PM that night. The next day was even worse as the wind chill dropped to -50F. Depressed, we hiked back to town for a good meal and I drowned my sorrows in beer.

 

On the third day we caught an unbelievable break in the weather and decided to go 'fast and light' from the visitor's center. The wind chill had risen to -20F and we left the trailhead at 8:30 AM arriving at the summit four hours later. Our descent took only 2 hours (feet burning inside my double plastics) and we were back in town to celebrate (more beer).

 

The next day we packed up and headed back to Canada knowing that our summit was a matter of luck with the weather. Unfortunately two other climbers died in falls, the first just five days after we left and the second a month later.

 

Gear Notes:

Trekking poles

Ice axe

Double plastic boots

Down jacket

 

Approach Notes:

All trails are well maintained by the USFS.

Edited September 8, 2004 by Flatlander1

[Steddy]

moat mountain brewery just north of n. conway on 16 -- 20 oz. glasses of good brew!!

[Alex]

Thats scary that so many ppl are dieing on this peak. Good job, I would have just stayed in the cabin playing cribbage.

[fourteenfour]

should move this TR to "the rest of US, int'l"