Flatlander1

Expedition Update One climber has withdrawn from the expedition so a position has become available. If interested please contact me as soon as possible at info@adventureclimbing.ca as the position will be filled on a first come, first served basis. Thank you.

Expedition Update As of June 2, 2006 this expedition has been filled, however, climbers may submit their names for inclusion on a short-list created in case any climbers withdraw. Thank you for your interest. Brad Marshall

Update As of May 10, 2006 there are still three spots available on the expedition. Brad

Update As of April 28, 2006 ten climbers have signed-up for the expedition and 2 spots are available. Brad

Update As of April 7, 2006 there are eight climbers signed-up for the expedition with 4 spots remaining. Brad

Update As of March 31, 2006 there are five climbers who have reserved spots on the expedition by submitting their $250 USD deposit. Due to the amount of interest so early I have decided to limit the total number of climbers on this expedition to a maximum of 12 for logistical reasons. Thank you for your interest, Brad Marshall

Timy: No problem, glad I could help. For what it's worth I take one in the mountains with me but usually only mark waypoints as I'm climbing. We used one on Denali to mark the location of our tent at the 17,200' camp and needed it to find our tent when we got caught in a blizzard. They definetely help but keep up the map and compass skills. Brad

Hey Timy: I agree with you about the whipping thing. Green Trail maps appear to be drawn to a unique scale. If you haven't seen it before Maptools has a Green Trails UTM Tool for the 1:69,500 scale. http://www.maptools.com/products/UTM-GT.html Hope it helps, if not you might want to switch to a 1:24,000 USGS map of the same area. It would show more detail and is probably a better map for navigation. Brad

Hey Alex: We camped in the lower section of Camp 2 while our buddy Walt was on the upper section closer to the base of the Polish glacier. The camp you see in the photo is Camp 2 at 19,200 on the Polish Glacier Route. We began our traverse fairly low down on this section. If you want to see a bigger size photo check these two links: http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/181480.JPG http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/178324/aconcagua-2006.html You can blow-up the photos pretty large by clicking on them again. In the shot of Camp 2 our tent is the yellow one on the extreme left while Walt's tent is the blue one on the right seemingly in the middle on nowhere. As for Daniel Lopez, well we had two enjoyable pizza and beer dinners there and met a lot of interesting people. Imagine, pizza and beer at almost 14,000 feet! I can't wait to do it all over again. Cheers, Brad

Hi Alex: Actually we crossed the Traverse twice on our trip and didn't require crampons. The first during an acclimatization hike and the second on our summit attempt. The second time I suggested we take our axes for traversing the last bit of ice due to the objective hazard below of a 400-500 foot steep runout into large rocks. There were good steps to follow but in some sections they had been polished by previous climbers and the hot sun. For the remaining ice there was little hazard beneath if one were to slip. For the most part you would have slid 10' into small rocky sections. As for crampons while we were on the route there was probably 1000 feet of ice to cross but nothing difficult given the trail that had already been put in and the fact that the surface of the ice was more like neve. Attached is a shot looking back at Camp 2 from part way up the Traverse. Brad

Hi Ryland: There are many reasons why I have advertised the Polish Direct and Traverse Routes for this climb but there is nothing to stop climbers from attempting the Normal Polish Route if they feel confident. First, this climb is being organized for climbers of varying degrees of skill. Some climbers may not have the technical skill to ascend the Polish Normal or Direct Routes (glacier travel and crevasse rescue) but will feel confident ascending the Traverse (crampons not required). Others may not want to carry all the technical gear required for either the Normal or Direct Routes. Some will plan to ascend the Polish Glacier but may later change their mind due to conditioning, weather, recent accidents, etc. Additionally, the Polish Direct is considered by many to be the safer, albeit steeper, of the two routes. This past season the Polish Direct was in fantastic condition due to the high snowfall last winter. Many climbers made the ascent using poles only and it was considered a staircase. However, this route was in dangerous condition the past 4 years due to the ice conditions you mentioned. Brad

Hi Everyone: I'm putting together an expedition to Aconcagua scheduled for Decemebr 22, 2006 to January 14, 2007 to climb the Polish Glacier Direct and/or False Polish Traverse depending on team size, skill levels and route conditions. For move information I encourage you to visit my web site at www.adventureclimbing.ca Brad

Congrats to Team Danger Duck on the summit and on the excellent pics on your link. Our team was coming down the mountain around this time so we must have passed you guys on the way out. We were in the 11,000 camp on the 24th but stayed overnight and went out the following day. Sounds like you guys blew right through from 17,000 to BC. That must have killed the old feet. We too were bummed out when we saw the descent onto the field and at the sight of Pig Hill, however, we couldn't see the top of the hill due to the weather. Too bad about the poor weather the last week of May. We lucked out and were off the mountain just before it moved in.

Sorry guys and gals it was the West Buttress and not the Rib. I had problems posting this report with the system running slow and I kept losing my net connection. Somehow two reports were posted so I deleted one and changed the title on the other. I was sure I wrote Buttress. Oh well, you're right about the suit Mark it was great. The weather was so good I didn't even take it out until our first morning at 17,000.

Climbed the West Rib of Denali on the Crazy Canuck Expedition from May 10-25. An amazing experience and the trip of a lifetime for me (wife says I won't be allowed on any more trips like this for the rest of my life, hahaha). Day 1 - Flew into base camp on May 10th with Talkeetna Air Taxi. TAT was the more expensive flight service to go with but they cater more to climbers than the other firms. Two poor climbers we met from California waited an extra day to fly in because one of the other services flew tourists around instead. Day 2 - We were up and on our way to Camp 1 by 6:00 AM over 5 miles away. I sported a 45 pound pack and 75 pound sled while we moved to Camp 1 in a single push in beautiful weather. In my opinion a single carry is the only way to go here given the distance. Leave early, take your time and enjoy the view if weather permits. Took One Sport boots on this climb and they were way too hot lower on the mountain but a joy higher up. Day 3 - Up late (8:00 AM) because we didn't hear our alarms. Started moving to Camp 2 in a single push up Ski Hill but got caught in a snow storm. Huge day effort wise moving that much weight up that hill in fresh snow. Only made it to 10,150 and set up camp. Day 4 - Snowed a lot so we loaded up only our sleds and moved some heavy loads through deep powder to Camp 2 at 11,200. Left the sleds there and returned to camp at 10,150. Day 5 - Up at 5:00 AM and moved to Camp 2 in about 2 hours with a 50 pound pack but thankfully there was no sled to pull. We have gained a reputation for being the first to leave camp each day and are now referred to as the Early Canadians. Watched other poor climbers hauling sleds up the high-angled route and decided it's crazy. Next time I'd put most of the weight in my pack and maybe only 20 pounds on my sled. Day 6 - Again up at 5:00 AM (that's what I get for going with an alpine climber). Big day carrying a load past Windy Corner at 13,500. Weather started out good and Windy Corner failed to live up to its namesake, however, as we returned it dumped a foot of snow on us in 5 hours. Windy Corner was slow going as it was mostly blue ice and there were huge crevasses all around the cache area. Day 7 - Up late for us and left camp at 8:00 AM heading to Camp 3 at 14,000. Everyone else were waiting for the Early Canadians to break trail as over 2 feet of fresh snow had fallen through the night. Broke trail (and our asses) to the top of Motorcycle Hill hauling sleds. At the top we waited for one of the guided groups to take over as they were moving light going up to cache at Windy Corner. Passed Windy Corner again in good weather, arrived at Camp 3 exhausted and asleep by 9:00 PM. Received news of the brothers who died in a fall on Denali Pass. Called our loved ones to let them know we were all right. One long f'in day. Day 8 - Rest day but went back to Windy Corner and picked up our cache. Only 15 minutes to go down but over 90 minutes to get back for nap time. The weather at 17,000 has been bad and a lot of people are stuck at the 14,000 camp waiting for the weather to turn. Radio on my MP3 player had good reception of a modern rock station in Anchorage on 103.10 MHz. Day 9 - Up early again and left to ascend the fixed rope section to 16,000. Two climbers beat us to the start of the fixed lines but they turned back due to the cold wind. I didn't think it was that cold as I've climbed in much colder weather on Mount Washington, NH. As we were better prepared for the weather we put on our down jackets (Primaloft in my case) and continued to the top of the fixed ropes. After climbing through crappy unconsolidated snow and the ice headwall we were rewarded with sunny skies and no wind. Sat at 16,200 for over an hour taking in the scenery and enjoying the warm sun before returning to camp after caching our gear. Day 10 - Rest day. Sat around camp listening to the MP3 under a blue sky and light winds. Walked to the "Edge of the World" to enjoy the view and then thinned-out my gear for the move to high camp. Day 11 - Up late (damn alarms) and got stuck behind a large guided group on the fixed ropes. Oh well, took our time and enjoyed the huge track being laid down by the stampede. It really made for easy going on the fixed ropes. Set up camp at 17,000 in light winds and cool temps. Day 12 - Up late to a windy morning and a summit attempt did not look promising. Winds let up at 3:00 PM so impatiently headed out on an evening ascent after sleeping all day. Ascended Denali Pass and reached the Japanese weather station at 18,000+ feet. One of the guys couldn't get his hands to warm up and was too tired to continue so we turned around. Unfortunately we took too long descending and got caught in a blizzard half way down Denali Pass. High winds and spindrift reduced our visibility to about 10 feet. My buddy slipped but we arrested the fall easliy and down-climbed to the base of the Pass. Lucking we had coded the location of our camp into a GPS and walked right through the blizzard to our tent. Three of the large guided groups had moved to high camp that day and were surprised to see us walking down from Denali Pass in that weather. From then on we were know as the Crazy Canadians. Day 13 - Weather report called for unsettled weather so decided to wait another day before abandoning our summit bid. We watched 34 climbers ascend in windy conditions but all make it to the top returning just before midnight. Apparently we were too impatient. Day 14 - Good weather so we were off on our second summit attempt. Ascended Denali Pass on such a sunny day I had to tie-off my TNF down suit around my waist and take off my toque to stay cool. Put the suit back on above 19,000 and arrived at Archdeacon's Tower which I had mistaken for the summit ridge in wind-driven snow. Then the wind died down and we caught a glimpse of the Football Field and Pig Hill!!! My heart sank when, after 5 or 6 hours of climbing, I saw how far we still had to go. Off we went across the field and sloooowly up Pig Hill to the summit ridge. After the long traverse of the ridge we finally arrived at the summit! Stayed on te summit for about 15 minutes (cold and windy) before heading down. Our descent was uneventful and after 13 hours of climbing we arrived back at camp. Day 15 - Packed up and headed down to camp at 14,000. Sat for a few hours and felt so good we continued on to 11,000. Day 16 - Today was one horrendous push back to base camp after ascending the appropriately named Heartbreak Hill. Flew out of base camp in the late afternoon, hung out our gear and off to the West Rib for beer and burgers. Please note: I had huge blisters on the balls and heels of my feet and did not want to walk on them (except to the bar) for two days. All in all we had terrific weather and enjoyed a great climb. I'm putting lots of pictures in the gallery. Cheers, Gear notes: 1) One Sport boots were much hotter on the lower mountain than the other climbers Scarpa's with Intuition liners. 2) My Western Mounaineering Bison bag was too warm. 3) I had a Dana Design Terraplane that was just the right size to hold my gear. 4) MSR XGK stove really melted a lot of snow and the Dragonfly was the best for simmering. 5) TNF down suit was great and so was the MHW Union Suit. 6) OR safari hat was a god-send as were the Julbo Serpa glasses

Just got back from Washington using the Intuition liners. The fit was great wearing thin liner and winter mountaineering socks. Pulled a 35 lb sled wearing a 35 lb pack up 1500 feet in 2 miles, did a bit of alpine ice up another 1000 ft or so and descended with the pack and sled. Only noticed a slight bit of movement in one heel but no blisters where my two partners did on their heels. My feet didn't heat up on the descent from friction and there was no toe-hammering. However, the overlap of the liner at the shin is much stiffer than the Koflach liners and got a bit painful on the descent. Hopefully this part will break in over time. A buddy of mine that's a guide has the Intuition's in Scarpa Invernos told me it takes a couple of trips to break them in. As a test the next day I put the Koflach liners in and went up 3300 ft and back covering 6 miles. The Koflach liners were comfortable and easier on the shins but my the soles of my feet got pretty hot on the way down. Overall, I'm happy with the Intuitions and would recommend them to anyone looking for a custom liner. Cheers

My wife found most boots were wide for her feet too but she doesn't have "freakishly" narrow feet. She found Kaylands fit her best as they have a women's line available in 1/2 sizes. She chose the Multi Traction W boot with Event lining, Vibram Kommando soles, weighing 730 grams (manf spec)and have a rear welt for crampons. They are a stiff boot but there is some flex in the sole. We found the Grivel G14's fit the boot great. Hope this helps.

Finally got the liners molded at a local ski shop. I cut high-density foam pads and taped them inside the heel lock of my Verticals, put on the toe cap, a thick mountaineering sock and covered the whole works with the thin liner sock provided by Intuition. I placed the liners inside the boots and stood around the store looking like an idiot while they heated the boots on a dual-tube ski boot heater for 10 minutes. When ready I put the boots on, laced them up tight, put on a 30 pound pack and stood for 15 minutes with my knees slightly bent (really looked like an idiot now). Half way through I tightened the laces even more. They feel good walking around at home while drinking beer but I'm testing them out on Mount Washington, NH next week (wind chill -40F today). I'll let anyone interested know how they work out when we get back. Cheers

My wife and I bought Petzl harnesses when we began. Price was not a consideration so we went with a harness that fit the best and was most comfortable thinking we would be hanging in them on top rope. They are heavier but have 4 gear loops and a buckle system that doesn't have to be doubled-back. Great for what we do but not recommended (or recommendinated) for the mountains.

Don't know about stuffing your fly KYLE cause your partner might get disappointed when you pull it out . As for the tent I fold and roll my Marmot around all the extra stuff in its bag (poles, tie-downs, etc.). Keeps the poles from puncturing the tent fabric. I do stuff the fly (of the tent!) in the top of the bag as it's too difficult to roll up.

Olyclimber: Saw the video but the liners I got were pre-formed and not the flat style. Did you get instructions from Intuition and try it yourself? I was thinking about it but didn't want to damage them so I'm still planning on going to a ski shop this week. Let me know how you made out,if you looked like this while molding them and what you put on your burns to reduce the pain. Cheers,

Hi Olyclimber: Sent you a PM regarding the Altimax. Cheers

Bfiles: have overboots but have been looking for mittens. What ones do you have and how much are you looking to get for them? Send me a PM.

Still looking for a down bag, -30 or -40F

OK, so here's the deal so far. Intuition Sports sent me the liners, toe caps, high-density foam (to fill in the heel in the Verticals), instructions and even socks to wear while molding. Now I just have to find a shop to fit them for me. I will keep anyone interested informed as to how they fit. Just drank a whole bottle of wine by myself so Happy New Year to all and to all a good night.