LUCKY Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 New routes at Lava Point Deadhead wall, the first climb coming in from the east. Steal your face 5.10-C named after the lighting bolt skull emblem of the dead FA Lucky and Mary Dream wall, to find this wall continue west along the top of the cliff till you find a karn on top of a stump and the descent gully. This wall has the biggest Lava jugs you have ever seen The second climb as you head west, Imbibing Neon Dream Emerging Ever Despondent( INDEED ) 5.10-B the name was inspired by LW, climbs jugs of frothy lava rock to thin power move FA Lucky and Yoder. Further west toward the end of the wall the route going out the largest roof NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 5.11-B climb straight out the roof to a bolt on the lip, has been led clipping the bolt on lead but unless your solid on horizontal 11-B moves or wired it on top rope like I did, I would advise a stick clip, ring anchors down from cliff top FA Lucky Mary and Rusty. Way steep and way fun this route At the west end of the wall you find a set of chains (Marys project)the second climb to the right is Lava Sundae 5.10-A ,the first climb put up on this wall, start with a bolt on a large black face continue up past two closely spaced bolts than to a black lieback corner ,up to a bolt on a small roof, up to ring anchors and a comfortable belay. This area has seen a lot of routes lately and for more beta you will have buy the new Tieton River Canyon guide coming out soon . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 how soon is that? i heard that same thing last spring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yakimuchacho Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 Lucky, Mary, and Rusty's routes/FA's are absolutely incredible. They were cleaned well, the rock is very unique ("Frothy Lava" as Lucky calls it), and are a blast to climb. Thank you's go out to Lucky and others for letting some Yakivegas natives tie in on their ropes at Dream Wall during Labor Day weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted September 8, 2004 Author Share Posted September 8, 2004 Yakimuchacho, You and your partner can tie in with us any time and this board has you to thank for getting me stoked to post the bata for the routes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 Yeah, thanks for the info, sounds great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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