Infinite Bliss

[Peter222]

Looking for good description of approach and climb. Any help out there, also how does one get a hold of Leland windham.

[catbirdseat]

Post deleted by Alex

[willstrickland]

Don't be a wank dude, that search didn't even bring back any results for me the way you constructed it

 

Peter222, this thread is probably the best one, take a look through it:

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/347919/page/5/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

 

And Alpine Dave has a cool trip report here: http://www.alpinedave.com/garfield/infinite_bliss.htm

[Alex]

There is ample beta and topos on the net. Even so, I can say from recent experience that the more beta you have, the better.

 

The first hour approach is very steep up through the trees along a fairly decent trail, very faint at first, to the base of the route. Water at the base of the route.

 

The earlier you get to the base, the better. This route is a very long day, even for extremely fast parties! We got to the base of the route at 6:30am, or thereabouts.

 

The first 10 or so pitches are all low-to-moderate 5th. The first 5 pitches are characterized by very low angle slab. With around 25 draws you can simul the first 4 pitches clipping every bolt and anchor. The next few pitches climb undulating (sometimes steep, sometimes not) terrain to the base of the first crux pitch. When we climbed to this point, we were simulclimbing alot, and linking alot of pitches together with a 70m and simulclimbing. The "ditch" pitch is pretty much a solo.

 

The 10b pitch is steeper, clean granite face climbing. Above that much more terrain leads to the final upper headwall, and several 5.10 pitches.

 

Some notes:

* climb as fast as you possibly can.

* the confusion around where to go p16 and p17 is not to be underestimated. Study your topo, locate the features, and follow all advice you can find about routefinding on these two pitches. The mandatory downclimbing here would be extremely dangerous when wet.

* party inflicted rockfall on the first 11-12 pitches is a real concern.

 

I don't recommend this climb, but I figure everyone should make up their own minds.

 

Alex

[Alpinfox]

There is a 10- pitch on the first half and a solid 10 pitch on the upper half. All other pitches are < or = 5.9

 

More trip reports:

Number One (including my TR)

Number B

[chucK]

Park at first pullout after the first big wash after the Taylor River bridge. Hike down the road about 50 feet then cut up through the forest and find the well trodden trail just across a small creek at the base of a small waterfall.

 

On the route follow the bolts. Don't get overly fixated on pitch numbers because everybody who does it seems to get different pitch counts for different places (you will understand why once you climb it).

 

When you're at the base of the big chossy slab (you will know this because you are

1. at a two-bolt belay station

2. you've just climbed a pitch that's starting to look a bit dirtier than the rest of the climb and there were only two bolts or so on the pitch.

3. the "pitch" above looks flatter and chossier than the rest of the climb so far.

4. you don't see any bolts above you

5. there is a "hummock" with bushes and grass just above you and to your right.)

 

When you get to this spot, look up and right past the hummock and locate the relatively large (3 foot high) bush about 120 feet away. Straight above that bush about 100 feet is a two-bolt belay anchor. Note that 100' + 120' is probably longer than the lengths of your ropes. Plan accordingly.

 

 

My apologies for the SYO (Spoiled Your Onsight).