Installing a Fixed Line

[AlpineClimber]

I am seeking some "expert" advice on what people think the best approach to setting up a fixed line with a glacier rope. (To use as a prusik/hand line) For instance, if I have a picket, would burying and deadmaning a picket tied off with a bowline or some knot, and then dragging the rest with me be the right way to go? If the other end of the fixed line happens to be exposed icy rock, what type of anchor on that end is advisable? Thought about using a cam or nut, but it seems a bit dicey.

 

I understand it's completely dependent on conditions of the snow, possible anchor locations, but I was just curious. Doesn't seem to be much written on this subject.

 

Thanks.

[catbirdseat]

You want each anchor point to be omnidirectional. If you are using nuts, you'd want to set them in opposition, so that they will not shake out from rope movement. Pitons are good for the reason that they are naturally omnidirectional.

[Dru]

For instance, if I have a picket, would burying and deadmaning a picket tied off with a bowline or some knot, and then dragging the rest with me be the right way to go?

I wouldn't fix the bottom until you have the top fixed, just have someone belay you till then.

 

If the other end of the fixed line happens to be exposed icy rock, what type of anchor on that end is advisable? Thought about using a cam or nut, but it seems a bit dicey.

 

Why? Pitons? Do you lead climb? The question makes it sound like you don't know much about placing gear. Just tie off to a bomber anchor. If you cant get a bomber anchor dont fix the line.

[catbirdseat]

I think what Dru is saying is that natural pro is to be preferred, of you can get it, for example, tunnels and horns, etc.

[Dru]

No what I'm saying is that if you can't build a bomber anchor either from cams,nuts,pins, bolts, slung trees etc dont fix a line. And if you can then why are you asking the question?

[AlpineClimber]

Ok, that makes sense. My question was more revolved around the details of the type of anchor if finding a natural horn or something ended up being a problem. etc. Sorry to have implied something else to Dru.

[dylan_taylor]

There is usually a lot more that goes into installing a fixed line. How long will it be - just your one 60m? How many people will be using it? How steep is the terrain? What are you using it to protect you from? will you be climbing up it with prussiks, and rapping down it? Or just using it as a hand line on slippery 4th class?

 

Dru is right - no reason to put in a fixed line unless the anchors for it are bomber. But some anchors are more permanent and low maintenance than others. Depending on how long it is, and how many people would use it, you might want to build additional intermediate anchors (buried pickets in good snow, etc...) so that if there are several people on the line at once, they are not all stressing the upper anchor.

 

If there is no jugging or rapping expected, or if you are leaving it for a while, you should leave each section of the line tight. If jugging or rapping is anticipated, leave 6 or so feet of slack in each segment of the line.