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[TR] Ingalls- East Ridge 8/8/2004


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Climb: Ingalls-East Ridge


Date of Climb: 8/8/2004


Trip Report:

My wife and I climbed the E Ridge of Ingalls on Sunday, Aug 8th. (We had actually gotten up at 4am Aug 7th(!!) and driven well over Snoq Pass in the pissing rain before we decided to put off the attempt for a day.) Arose at 4am to drive to Teanaway River. Approach hike was nice in the cool early morning shade, and fast with tons of cars in the lot, but no one up and about. We were afraid of other parties on route as we have heard there is alot of potential for rock fall in the approach gully, so motored. 3 hours car to rope-up.


The approach gully looks yucky from below, but is fine, and even well travelled. Snow no problem. The climb starts about 50 ft left of the deep chimney where the gully steepens. The first pitch is 60m to the notch, with much loose rock. If you plan to climb this route, make absolutely sure no one is in the approach gully or on the first pitch above you before you enter the gully! The tales of rockfall are true.


My wife and I had thought to climb the E peak from the notch, but it looked unappealing, actually. Instead, we simulclimbed the E ridge (4th, sparse pro) of N Peak in around an hour to the crux move where I stopped to give a quick belay. The crux is steep on crappy rock, but 2 fixed nuts and a nice red alien placement make it fine.


We rappelled the S Face with a party from Portland in about 30 minutes, and had an enjoyable (though hot) hike back out to the car.


Its hard to recommend this route to others. Though it looks awesome from a distance, and has a few spots of fine position on the climb itself, up close and personal its just not that interesting really. Still, if you have only done/are bored with the S Ridge of Ingalls and are looking for something just a hair longer and a hair more challenging, this might be your ticket.


Gear Notes:

This route takes mostly small pro. You will want small sized cams (green, yellow, red aliens), one #1 camalot size, and perhaps half a set of nuts, on the small side. You can climb this route in approach shoes (the crux has positive holds), however rock shoes might be nice, especially if you are simulclimbing.

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Thanks for the TR. I agree with everything you say, but would still recommend the route for the exposure, the interesting knife-edge section(s), the awesome scenery, and the straightforward descent. If you rap the South Face, you can then climb the S Face, doubling your climbing!


It's worth doing at least once . . . .

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There is a really big rock poised to fall from the top of the first pitch on the East Ridge of Ingalls (the gully). It looks like it is part of the big flake next to the set of cracks where you might set up a belay anchor at the top of the gully, left of and above the chockstone in the notch. I started to set an alien in the crack behind this stone (it looks like part of the solid rock) but the action of the cam made the whole rock wiggle. This was in late July, 2004.

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Curious about the general snow conditions up the "approach gully." I have done the route before and plan on taking a fairly new climber up it soon, so I was wondering how much snow is left in the gully? Feel any need for crampons? Ice axe?


I think the route is a fun introduction to alpine in a great area thumbs_up.gif, though mostly scrambling.


Thanks in advance..... wave.gif

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