torment-forbidden question

[JoshK]

every time I've heard of somebody doing this traverse they do this "steep snow traverse" Is there some particuliar reason people avoid the ridge crest and detour on the snow? Is it just that this is the "established" way or are there actually technical reasons that prevent easily staying on the crest? Doing the travers without the venture onto the stupid snow would be very nice, IMHO, but I have no idea what it actually looks like up there...

 

thanks,

-josh

[dberdinka]

So you're kinda sitting at this nice bivi spot. About were a reasonably fit, reasonably proficent weekend warrior can get in a day. There is this steep f&*king snow slope perched above a huge shrund at the top of a very steep glacier. You look at your piddly boots, your one axe, hopefully your crampons. A little butterfly of fear develops in your stomach.

 

You look at the rock ridge. A chossy, steep pillar blocks the way, looks maybe 5.8? But the gear sucks or is at least quite a bit bigger than anything you brought. Behind it is a mandatory stretch of snowy arete followed by another steep wall of broken rock.

 

Time to medicate and sleep on it.......

[adrianburke]

We just did the Traverse last Sunday (see the TR). The two snow bypasses skip a bunch of gendarmes. Climbing the rock would add a lot of time and effort. In our TR, I mention that we did actually climb rock for the second half of the first traverse - skipping a bit of the steep snow. What I forgot to mention in the description is that the second belay on those "extra 3 rock pitches" was total crap. Basically a rising gully slotted full of loose dinner plates. I had gear in, but no confidence in any of the rock within 10 meters of me. As long as you are confident on the snow, it is easier and probably safer. We didn't have pickets, but they might make you feel better - the snow was pretty soft, so I am not sure they would hold, but the psychological pro might get you across....

 

Adrian