[TR] Mt Baker- Coleman 7/26/2004

[Fairweather]

Climb: Mt Baker-Coleman

 

Date of Climb: 7/26/2004

 

Trip Report:

The Kid arrives at the pumice ridge...starting to hurt a little:

Roman Wall:

Ben on the top w/my brother Steve:

Winding through some crevasses at 8400ft:

Ben and I back at camp:

 

Camped at the top of Heliotrope Ridge (about 5800 feet elev) Sunday night with my son (15 yrs old) and brother, Steve. We began our climb at 2:30am Monday on great cramponing snow...the cooler temps were a welcome surprise. Venus was brighter than I have ever seen it, and the lights of Abbotsford illuminated the landscape to the North. The cowpath had obviously rerouted itself in at least three locations recently as evidenced by dead enders at crevasses now too wide to jump. The route now traverses almost all the way to the Roman Mustache before cutting back to the saddle. Some fairly large crevasses on route, but they present no problems. The sun rose as we reached the 9000ft saddle below Colfax Peak. My son, who had been moving strong until now, began to slow as we climbed the pumice ridge and traversed the Roman Wall rightward toward the top of the Easton Glacier Route. GU packets were administered and the climb continued.

 

We arrived on the summit at 7:50am to 35mph winds and temps slightly below freezing. A thick smoky haze covered Mount Shuksan almost completely. As we descended back across the football field we crossed paths with the two USFS rangers we had earlier seen coming up the Easton. (These guys were fast!) They told us it is still in good shape.

 

The descent was HOT below the saddle, and no crampons were worn from here down. I suspect the route will continue to change rapidly, especially below the saddle...forcing climbers even closer the mustache.

 

Great trip! My son's first Baker climb.

 

Gear Notes:

Basic Glacier Gear. Crampons used and needed. (Recommend dull-pointed aluminum lightweights for teenagers or people who can't keep their spikes out of their gaiters! )

 

No hardware used or needed.

 

 

 

Approach Notes:

Snow free to top of Heliotrope Ridge.

[wally]

[BreezyD]

Sweet!

 

Isn't Baker just plain pretty?

 

It's very cool that you are taking the time to climb with your son! My favorite climbing partner is my Dad to this day. This is something he'll remember it for the rest of his life.