forbidden torment traverse??

[leearden]

Share some beta on the Forbidden-Torment Traverse?

Is there anything crucial we'd want to know?

Any spray will be appreciated, thanks

[ivan]

i did part of this a couple of weeks ago...if you're familiar w/ the rock quality on forbidden i think you'll be very dissapointed w/ the torment area. i found the climb up the south ridge of torment (nelson's standard way up), the summit and the subsequent ridge section (at least the first 1/4 of the traverse) very loose and unenjoyable, despite being technicaly easy (i rate it as 5.suck, therefore). my partner had a near scrape w/ disaster when a massive block broke under him, requiring him to leap 5 feet back down to the ridge, injuring his hand so that he couldn't use it. w/ imminent zero visibility and rain already beginning to fall, we bailed from the last possible gully back down to the glacier at the foot of torment, doing 1 rap off a sling and 2 raps off rock fins. i have little interest in finishing the route...think i'd rather just climb on good rock as there's shitloads of it around in the area.

Edited July 13, 2004 by ivan

[Alex]

I agree, I've done the S Ridge of Torment with dps and my wife, and we found it heady, mediochre climbing on somewhat friable rock - not really worth the effort. If your target is Torment, it makes an OK route. If you are just trying to get on the traverse, might do SE Face Torment instead and just skip the S Ridge entirely.

[ivan]

chossy torment on upper left, solid forbidden on right, smarmy persian on lower right