[TR] Stuart and ingalls- North Ridge(great gendarme) and S. +E. Ingalls 7/4/2004

[skyclimb]

Climb: Stuart and ingalls-North Ridge(great gendarme) and S. +E. Ingalls

 

Date of Climb: 7/4/2004

 

Trip Report:

Greg and I awoke Saturday morning to find nothing but ominous clouds ripping over our tarp. That coupled with the foul smell from the near by shitter, and we weren't too stoked. So we went back to sleep and awoke at 930 hours at which time we made our way to Ingalls Peak. We proceeded to simul the south ridge, and relished in the amazing movements the route has to offer. We banged out the east ridge in similar fashion, noting the difference in movements and rock texture between the two ridges.

We were back at the tarp by 1400 hours just below Ingalls lake. As night fell we fixated on the clearing skies and the possiblity of a shot on the beloved North Ridge of Stuart. We Ate, We Drank, We released for the goats.

Moving at 330 hours Sunday morning due to cold winds, and the promise a nearly full moon had to offer. We reached goat pass after some interesting snow traversing, and refilled the camelback at a water drip just under the Stuart glacier. Interesting snow and rock climbing in the couloir kept things spicy. -note to self- tree sticks aren't good ice axes. As we arived at the bivy ledge we were glad to drop our ice axes, and move onto a more comfortable medium-Rock!

We began the ridge at 1030 hours simuling on a 27 meter 7.8mm. It was 37 meter until a core shot on the east ridge of Ingalls left that section off limits. We made great time, with the second carrying the pack of boots, crampons water, gu, and down jackets. We arrived at the great gendarme 3 hours after beginning the ridge proper to be amazed at the beauty, and awe inspiring exposure the gendarme afforded. Greg lead the first pitch making quick time of the triple waved crack. I then stepped up to the off width. I made the traverse, slung up a sketchy rock wedged in the crack and began climbing. I grunted for about 10 feet and placed a 3" BD, only to realize it wasn't engaged-too small. at this point I understood there was no other option but to keep moving to the 4" fixed piece 10 feet above. Into the void of nothingness I crept as the world 2,000 feet below was calling . All that existed was blackness. When I clipped the 4" the world rushed back in, and I finished the pitch uneventfully. Greg finished up the gendarme with style making my sweat look silly.

We finished the route about 2.5 hours later and enjoyed a marvolous view of the range.

A 5 hour decent filled with glissading on snow, rock and nasty whacking lead us back to the tarp, and later the truck.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Sticks aren't good ice axes

3.5 BD IS worth the weight

 

Approach Notes:

Snow traversing to 40 degrees to attain Goat pass

steep snow traverse to base of couloir.

[John Frieh]

"What time is it?"

 

I was wondering where you guys were on Saturday… Ron and I thought we saw you (or at least your headlamps) around 3 am near Ingalls Lake from Stuart Pass... must have been some else. Good work on the climb; I took some photos of you 2 on the slab pitch... once I get my slides back and scanned I can email them to you if you want.

[skyclimb]

"No really, what time is it"

Looked like the pillar was a blast, Greg got a sweet shot of you on route, right about the point you made the pendulum I think. I will put it in the gallery shortly.

The north ridge IS "HOT"

[glacier]

Sweet - Looks like I'd better spring for the 3.5. I assume the rest of your rack was pretty much alpine standard (singles of everything)?

[mvs]

great TR - I slung that sketchy chockstone yesterday - I thought it was pretty solid pro! :-)

I brought the 3.5, so slept in my cocoon of security till reaching the fixed cam. Which option creates better memories?