[TR] Cutthroat Peak- South But. 6/26/2004

[gmknight]

Climb: Cutthroat Peak-South But.

 

Date of Climb: 6/26/2004

 

Trip Report:

My buddy John flew up from Cali and I made the mistake of suggesting Cutthroat. We approached in a nasty thunderstorm and scrambled up the right hand gully. Set up the rap then waited in a patch of sun to dry out and assess the weather. After about ten minutes we gave the green light and got started. It became appearent on the first ten feet that the rock quality blows. The route went smoothly but the rock was bad and climbing poor. It rained a little on the 4th pitch but the thunder and lightning let up so the was risk was low. Tagged one of the lower summits and GTFO down the descent gully.

 

Cant recommend this route.

 

Gear Notes:

Gear to 2.5"

Nelson suggests a large hex but we didnt use anything bigger than a #2 camalot. The crux (last pitch) looks runout but there are small gear options and a fixed pin.

 

Approach Notes:

Bring a log

[bobinc]

Sounds about right. You forgot to mention it's also a popular Mountie destination ("intermediate" climb).

[Al_Pine]

Approach Notes:

Bring a log

 

Does this have anything to do with this ?

[Gary_Yngve]

I think Nelson's suggestion is for the final summitblock.

You get to the false summit, drop down a little saddle, and then when you go up to the true summit, there's a short wide crack that takes a hex near the bottom of it.