Dragonfly--NF of NEB on Dragontail

[lunger]

I know there's a topo in Beckey, but there's not much else route info. on this one. Wonder if anyone has any additional tidbits they would kindly share on this route? Unkind OK too. Apres she ate it.

 

Sense of adventure says let it unfold. Sense of self-preservation says get more info. Apparently we need from knifeblades up to bigger stuff for some poorly protected OW, but unclear what needs lugging, or if this route has some "profane" stretches--as in rated R and/or v. loose.

 

The other two routes on the Buttress look like worthy fallbacks anyway...

 

Perhaps Messrs. Layton and E had a look at 'er en route to the NE Arete? Enjoyed your TR by the way.

[Off_White]

I was at Colchuck late when Yoder and partner (McGowan? can't remember without the book) arrived in the dark after the FA. We got 'em stoned and sent them on down the trail, and they were foaming at the mouth about how good the route was. Windmilling pantomimes and bugged out eyes suggested the crux was pretty sporty.

 

I've also done a route on the NE Butt between the Beckey route and the direct. I'm pretty sure the info in the guidebook about those other routes is wrong, but if you're contemplating Dragonfly you shouldn't have a hard time muddling through one line or another as a backup. The one we did was about 5.8. On the way in I sort of scanned around looking for the start of Dragonfly. I didn't scramble over to the base, but didn't look like it would be too hard to find.

 

If you do it, take pictures and tell stories.

[lunger]

thanks for the good info, Off. it's a big mtn, not surprising the route catalogs could be inaccurate. you got it, the CAG has it McGown (sic?). so dragonfly has bite, and they caught rabies--great. in keeping w/ tradition, stories forthcoming.

 

sounds like we should be able to find a good line in there somewhere.

[wayne]

That would be Bob McGown. He is an old-time partner of mine and he says good things about D-fly, I was thinking of going after a repeat of the rt myself.

In 88 we went and did a wild route on that big white headwall that cant be ignored. its called Dragons of Eden and goes at V-5.11d-A2 . We freed the cruxes on tr(2 aid Pitches of free tr)at the 12b range and hoped to return to an all free but we got old.Sweet route though with many hard pitches! Let me know if you go to d-fly