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[TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock- N.W. Buttress 6/27/2004


telemarker

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Climb: Colchuck Balanced Rock-N.W. Buttress

 

Date of Climb: 6/27/2004

 

Trip Report:

Kyle, Steve and I made a spontaneous decision to climb Colchuck Balanced Rock by way of the NW Buttress. The route lies on the pillar below the main gully, and below the normal aid route. The pillar featured many options, ours being 5.8 to 5.9 in four pitches to reach the top of the pillar. A continuation of the NW Buttress on the main wall looked dangerous, as a large portion of the N. buttress sheared off, leaving big, sharp hanging flakes and death blocks. We decided to traverse north to a grassy gully and scrambled along the N. Ridge to the summit.

 

It's an interesting climb, a bit loose, but a nice alternative to those wanting to climb CBR, but don't aid climb, but neither want to hike up the south shoulder.

 

Gear Notes:

Small rack, to 3 inches.

 

Approach Notes:

Great approach, many cragging opportunities along the way.

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