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Posted

Climb: Colchuck Balanced Rock-N.W. Buttress

 

Date of Climb: 6/27/2004

 

Trip Report:

Kyle, Steve and I made a spontaneous decision to climb Colchuck Balanced Rock by way of the NW Buttress. The route lies on the pillar below the main gully, and below the normal aid route. The pillar featured many options, ours being 5.8 to 5.9 in four pitches to reach the top of the pillar. A continuation of the NW Buttress on the main wall looked dangerous, as a large portion of the N. buttress sheared off, leaving big, sharp hanging flakes and death blocks. We decided to traverse north to a grassy gully and scrambled along the N. Ridge to the summit.

 

It's an interesting climb, a bit loose, but a nice alternative to those wanting to climb CBR, but don't aid climb, but neither want to hike up the south shoulder.

 

Gear Notes:

Small rack, to 3 inches.

 

Approach Notes:

Great approach, many cragging opportunities along the way.

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Posted

Hey Tele:

 

Did you see a couple (guy and girl) on the peak? We ran into them on Friday (they were camped at the lake) and she mentioned that peak as an idea for Sunday.

 

Just curious.

 

John Sharp

Posted

Muy buenos dias Juan,

 

We did see a guy and girl starting the route just as we reached the base of our climb. We saw them complete the first pitch, but didn't hear or see them after that, and assumed they bailed.

Posted

Hola! She had an accent -- maybe Canadian? -- and said she had never been to the area. We figured they were Squamish hot shots maybe. Glad you guys had a good day. Is that Kyle Flick to whom you refer?

 

Juan

Posted
Hola! She had an accent -- maybe Canadian? -- and said she had never been to the area. We figured they were Squamish hot shots maybe. Glad you guys had a good day. Is that Kyle Flick to whom you refer?

 

Juan

 

That is THE Kyle Flick to whom I refer.

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