Hwy 20 / Washington Pass

[David_Parker]

I saw that waterfall about 5 years ago but did not climb it. Can you walk across the lake or do you need to stay on land? DPP

[Andy_Bourne]

I climbed the SW couloir of S Early Winter Spire on Saturday the 24th. The parking lot for Blue Lk Trailhead was plowed and several other parties were up there that day. It wasn't too cold, so the snow was sort of slushy on the approach, but not too bad. Conditions in the couloir were variable from good firm snow to hip deep wading to short sections of thin water ice over loose rock. It never got any steeper than about 45 degrees and there was snow and ice all the way to the top of the couloir. Reaching the summit involved one or two 5.0 moves. A very nice outing all in all. Instead of downclimbing the route, I went down the S Arete via downclimbing and a couple of rappels.

A friend of mine just now walked in, he also just returned from WA pass, and said that a crust has formed from rain on Sunday, and the skiing wasn't all that great. He was on the hwy side of S early Winter.

[Tod]

I was up the Cascade River Road last Thursday (3/22) doing some skiing up on Snowking Mountain.

I was able to drive up to 2200' without hardly any difficulties and on north facing slopes, the snow starts in abundance at about 3400'.

The Cascade River Road area probably has a lot more snow than the Washington Pass area, since it is farther west in more direct exposure to precipitation, but hopefullly that givees you an idea on snow levels and possibily conditions.

Cyclone Lake (5350') was completely covered with snow. I was not able to find any water or slush after doing some minor digging with my pole...

My post in the North Cascades forum has a full trip report on the ascent and snowboard descent down Snowking. Skiings great right now....

Tod

 

[Ade]

Did anybody get out this past weekend (Mar 22/23)? If so what were conditions like? I'm looking to get out next weekend, weather permitting.

Ade

 

[philfort]

I was "in the area" yesterday afternoon, but just skied up to the Cutthroat Pass area.

The snow was very slushy (reached 5600ft). Didn't get a clear view of any climbing routes west of the pass, because it was cloudy, very warm, and sometimes raining hard. It turned to snow in the afternoon, as the temperature dropped sharply. There didn't seem to be too many cars parked at the trailheads.

It was only partly cloudy east of the pass. I did see some fat blue ice right above Cutthoat Lake. Has anyone here climbed that? It's in a horrible position avalanche-wise, and it's a little far to go for what looks like a half to full pitch of not-very-difficult-looking ice, but it sure looked in good shape.