TR: Johny Vegas and Mud Springs Canyon

[shapp]

Went to Red Rocks last month. Did Johny Vegas among other things and would like to suggest bumping the route up to 5.6+. Also hiked into mud springs canyon to scope the approach to Chuckawalla and found some good pools to huck into. The flowers were also out.

 

 

[chirp]

Was it ever below 5.6? I did it shortly after it was put up, Wendell told us about it and it was mighty scary...loose and all...5.7 for sure.

[Dru]

it's 5.7 in the swain guide and 5.6 in the supertaco

[lancegranite]

You hiked into Mud Springs....Chuckwalla?

[shapp]

Yeah,

We did the hike into mudsprings canyon. It was pretty easy for the first 2 hours. Once you get into the narrow canyon past the pools, which you see above it is much more difficult. I would definitely give it 2.5 to 3 hours if you have't been in there and you are going for chuckwalla. We didn't do the climb cause we had to catch a flight that evening. We didn't plan on climbing that day and didn't bring any gear. We wanted to checkit for next time and hit the pools for some diving.

 

On Johny Vegas: I think the last 30 ft or so of the second pitch is defenitely not 5.6 but the rest of the route is pretty easy and the loose holds are mostly gone. I did not encounter any holds that I felt were loose. The pro is very good. However I went tooo high on the 3rd pitch following the crack before I pulled around the bulge to the left and missed the belay anchors by about 20 or 30 feet, but there was a nice crack up a little farther and I just set up a natural anchor. I think the climb is super worthy, but you should be a comfortable 5.8 leader or else you will have a little but pucker on the second pitch. Also the gear is a little bit thin on the second pitch crux, but aint too bad. Thats my take on it.