Liberty Crack Info

[redneck_rocker]

I was wondering what the conditions (besides wet) of liberty crack at this time of year. I was considering an early season ascent but was wanting some feedback regarding conditions/feasibility of the route. any info would be greatly appreciated.

[John Frieh]

I'd wait a couple of weekends... the first pitch is likely wet as well as the 7th (if you run 6 and 7 together making it 6) which is harder to aid (a sweet 5.9 anyways... you want to free that one). Here is some other info I copy/pasted out of a previous post of mine (sorry if its not what you were looking for):

 

Selected Climbs list the ledge at the top of 5 as a bivy spot. Have slept on this ledge, I would not recommend it at all! It is actually two small ledges: one is roughly 4 square feet and the other is maybe 18 inches wide and 5 feet long so one partner gets to sleep upright all night while the other repeats the matra “don’t roll over” in ones sleep. Both are removed from the belay anchor so one has to run a long loop from the anchor or use some existing pins.

 

Rapping down to I believe what people are calling triangle ledge is also an option. Assuming you run 6 and 7 together (recommended), ¾ of the way through pitch 8 you will see two rusty coffin nails (quarter inchers) to the left. One could rap off these, but if you continue through pitch 9 and into the start of pitch 9 (easily accomplished with 60 meter rope), you can use the first tree you reach as a belay anchor/rap point. It will land you directly on the ledge and the tree is way more bomber to leave a line fixed to (with ample number 2 and 3 camalot placements next to the tree) than the coffin nails. I slept on this ledge years ago and found two aliens and a nut someone had dropped off the route above. Roomy (monstrous if compared to the one at the top of 5) in size. A good spot if you are in search of a fun wall bivy.

 

With that said, I would recommend you just avoid bivying all together. Chances are if you plan on bivying, you will haul and hauling especially on the upper pitches sucks! Even if you get the pig through all the brush and trees that litter pitches 9 and 10 without getting it stuck, some will need to hump throught the 4th class section to the top. Suck. If you insist on hauling, don’t let the second jug above the pig or plan on rapping back down to free it numerous times.

 

After climbing this route a few times, I think a good strategy for climbing it in a day is as follows:

 

Day 1: Fix pitches 1 through 3 with two sixty-meter ropes. One can actually fix the first 4 pitches with two sixties and 4-6 aiders (manufactor dependent) chained together at the bottom of the second rope. This will allow (assuming on can lead 5.9 trad) one to leave all aid gear except for 1 pair of aiders for the one aid move at the start of pitch 8. Sleep at car.

 

Day 2: Blast to the top. Assuming you fixed 1-3, you just have 7 pitches and some 4th between you and the top. If you are unsure you can climb that many pitches in a day, practice climbing Orbit and Outer Space comfortably in a half day.

 

Other tips: Don’t park your car at the corner; the staters will tow you. Cam hooks will make the roof pitch a walk.

 

 

PM me or post them here if you have other specific questions.

[redneck_rocker]

Has anyone done liberty crack yet this year??? or around this time of year in the past...I am jsut wanting to know what to expect on the free sections...I am not too worried about the aid pitches..

[skyclimb]

Myself and Thad were up in the area last weekend. We found the north face of SEWS to still have a good deal of snow and ice.

We were planning to hit Lib Crack, but decided against it due to the amount of snow and ice on the north faces.

From the road it did appear dry.

Hope this helps

[John Frieh]

I have solo aided it in the winter... the snow wetness won't stop you; it will just force mandatory aiding in sections you wouldn't want too.

 

As far as freeing things goes, insist on freeing the 5th pitch (it sucks to aid), run 6 and 7 together (making them 6) and free 7. I have aided 7 and I don't recommend it... it just doesn't protect well (from an aid standpoint). There is a loose block at the top of 4 (at least the last time I climbed it); pull down not out...

 

The 5.9 at the top goes free in a downpour... its hands and fists so it doesn’t matter how wet it gets. Is there specific pitches you are worried about?

 

Packed your cam hooks?