Swauk Pinnacles

[wormfighter6]

Has anyone been climbing in Swauk. I understand it's sand stone there. If so how's the approach, is is sport, or trad. Also is any camping close to it? Any Beta wold be gratly appreciated. Finally, is their a guide book for the area.

[arlen]

It's typical sandstone. The approach is pretty straightforward if you find the right roads; you have to walk about half a mile or so up a blocked road before the crags are visible; and it's mixed sport/trad. You could camp on the road (dunno about legality). All the climbs are short single pitches and even the highest rated climbs are forgetable if fun. There is a guidebook with good approach info, but it's liable to be a purchase you'll eventually regret.

[max]

Any Beta wold be gratly appreciated.

 

Don't bother ubless you live in Blushastin.

[Wopper]

Very similar to Peshastin but the bolts are a little more manky and the sandstone crumbles easier. I have only been there once, and would not go back.

[catbirdseat]

I googled and found this report, and this:

 

Directions:

 

 

Fr Leavenworth, go 5 mi E on Hwy 2 to Hwy 97. Take Hwy 97 S to Swauk Pass. Swauk Pinnacles are ~2 mi W of pass. Approach via FS7340 for N areas - Northarctus Rock (30 min) or 7324 (Scotty Creek Rd) to 7234-500 for S areas - Sphinx / Red Dike / Sentinel.

Notes:

 

 

Sandstone spires similar to Peshastin Pinnacles, but higher, hence cooler, elevation and much further from the nearest tavern. Though routes are established, mostly poor rock? Bring water - hot in summer. Primitive camping or established USFS sites at Swauk or Tronsen CG's. K. Dwight writes, "With the obvious lack of attention over the years, anyone who puts forth the effort to climb the sandstone mayhem available in this desert alpine setting, will surely be disappointed. Plagued by 1/4" hardware store bolts and a nasty tendency to exfoliate major portions of existing climbs, the area will appeal to only a special breed. The previous two star rating is far over stated, and this area deserves a Black Hole rating because it indeed sucks the lime light from such nearby areas as Leavenworth and Vantage.

Classics:

 

 

Northarctus Rock

References:

 

 

RNR.com Add/Update K. Dwight 7/98; C 114(6/89)-24

(http://students.washington.edu/~mmcmurra/climb%20html/swauk.html)

[lancegranite]

Sounds like you need to hire the Spokane Mountaineers... they have a sandblaster.

[thrutch]

I have climbed out at Swauk once about 5 or 6 years ago and while the rock is not the best, the area does offer some beauty and solitude with some adventuresome sport cragging. I would say check it out and enjoy!

[wormfighter6]

Thanks for the info was kinds curoius because it an hour shorter drive to there than to Leavenworth. Sounds like we would be the only ones there if we did that.

[Peter_Puget]

Thrutch is right. Solitude and wonderful views. Fun place for picnics too.

 

Although the rock is pretty bad, there are some good climbs there. For example:

 

Gom Jabbar 10a (and a route right to it left) on the Gravel Top formation

 

Superciliary Line 5.10d on the Beak looks outrageous. I was too wimpy to try it tho. Maybe if I knew more about the bolts.

 

The Sphinx formation has some good routes including a fun TR up a groove on the right side.

 

I think REI has guides in stock. Dale Boyle wrote the guide. Contact info in the guide is:

 

PO Box 376

Bremerton, WA 98337

 

Odds are if you only want to go there to climb you will not like it. If you want a day outside with a bit of climbing you might have fun.

 

PP

[mvs]

the report catbirdseat found was mine. I went there once, won't go back, but I did enjoy the climb "Anubis" (5.6) quite a bit.

[catbirdseat]

Sounds like my experience with Chumstick Snag. It was an interesting thing to do once; I'm glad I visited it, but will probably never go back.

[Fromage]

Don't forget to spend an afternoon at the U-Fish in the Teanaway River Valley on your way in. A case of PBR and you're all set.

[chris_w]

I'll add a vote for "Been there once, won't go back" group. I met some friends there and they camped overnigt on the approach road with no problems.