[TR] Go to mt. rainier in june need info- 4/19/2004

[monrow]

Climb: Go to mt. rainier in june need info-

 

Date of Climb: 4/19/2004

 

Trip Report:

I my name is Frank (am french canadien (québec)sorry for my english quality!) I go to rainier from 14 june to 24 june on it I have 6 days to play on the mountain!!!! go hen! But am not sure wath way take between:

gib lebge

Kault glacier

fuhrer finger

We go on the mountain with full gear on complet autonomie we need reservation our not?

to travel from tacoma airport to paradise..public transport service our privet shuttle?

Avalange danger in june?

and night temp. average?

thank for the info!

 

frank the quebec french guy!

[DPS]

Bonjour Frank,

 

Comment c'est va?

 

June is too late for Gib Ledge. Kautz Glacier and Fuherer may still be in good condition. You will not need a reservation for these routes. Serac and icefall are a greater concern than avalanches on these routes in June. Expect temperatures at night as cold as 25 degrees Faherenheit. You will have to rent a car from the airport to get to Paradise. Their might be a shuttle, I am unsure.

[Stephen_Ramsey]

Frank,

 

It is good that you have six days to spend on your trip, because the weather on Mount Rainier in June can be very unpredictable. Six days allows you to select the best 3- or 4-day window to spend on the mountain.

 

You will need two permits. One is a climbing permit, which will cost you $35 per climber, and is not subject to a quota. The other is a wilderness camping permit, which is subject to a quota. Climbing on weekdays increases your chance of getting a permit for the area(s) you wish to make camp. Alternatively, you can reserve your wilderness camping permit. Check with the Mount Rainier National Park web page (http://www.nps.gov/mora/recreation/rsvpform.htm) for details. There is a $20 surcharge (per party) to reserve your camping permit.

 

Regarding transportation: For the routes you listed, your likely point of origin will be Paradise. I think there is a shuttle that goes from Sea-Tac Airport to Ashford, and continues on to Paradise. I think it is called Rainier Shuttle? Try googling on "Rainier Shuttle".

 

Gibraltar Ledges might not be very fun in mid June. Historically it tends to be more popular a bit earlier in the season. By mid June, the snow coverage is likely to be sparse. The Kautz Glacier is likely to be in good shape in mid June. The ranger station at Paradise has reasonably up-to-date information on all of the climbing routes on the mountain. Your best bet is to come to Paradise with maps and route information for a couple of different routes, and to have some flexibility in your plans.

 

Avalanche danger-- It can be significant, or insignificant, depending on the condition of the snowpack, recent snowfall, wind, temperature, etc. I've had to turn back at Cathedral Rocks once in mid June, because of significant avalanche hazard. Try to gather some information about the snowfall and weather data from the few days prior to your climb. Be prepared to make your own assessment of the avalanche hazard.

 

Average nighttime temperature: Depends on the elevation. I don't know what the average is at Camp Muir for mid-June, but I'd guess maybe -2C? However, be prepared for anything. I've seen overnight temperatures below -15C at Camp Muir (3072m) in mid-June. I've also seen very mild temperatures.

Edited April 19, 2004 by Stephen_Ramsey

[monrow]

this is a good idee to downclimbing kautz glacier????

[Bug]

Climb: Go to mt. rainier in june need info- Read on.

 

Date of Climb: 4/19/2004 That's not June. In english we say 6/19/2004 for June 19,2004.

 

Trip Report: (You haven't gone anywhere yet.)

I my name is Frank (am french canadien (québec)sorry for my english quality!OK I'm sorry for the French/English joke.) I go to rainier from 14 june to 24 june on it I have 6 days to play on the mountain!!!! go hen! But am not sure wath way take between:

gib lebge, NO. Long ledge of steep scree and no protection. 100m dropoff below.

Kault glacier, (Kautz glacier?) Probably

fuhrer finger, Definately

We go on the mountain with full gear on complet autonomie we need reservation our not? Reserve a vehicle.

to travel from tacoma airport to paradise..public transport service our privet shuttle? (No. This is the US. Get yur own ass up there.)

Avalange danger in june? Always possible to get snow. Even without snow, watch the afternoon sun loosen up those slopes. Get off the upper mountain by 1:00PM.

and night temp. average? Maybe 15F. Maybe 35F. One time we got rained on till 10PM at 10,000'.

thank for the info! Hope it helps.

 

frank the quebec french guy! Come back with a TR FrenchFrank.

[Nate]

A friend and I did the kautz last june 21-24, started at around noon, got to just below the turtle camp and stopped because of a snow storm, next day went to camp hazard and rested, next morning started about 3:30am did the ice section in the dark which was interesting but easy, placed one screw. Summit around noon, placed a picket and two screws on the ice downclimb, back to camp hazard at around 2pm, car by 7pm. It was a great climb for our first time on the mountain but we brought way too much gear. The other route we considered was the tahoma glacier, i think that would have been a little more interesting, with a longer approach and more routefinding it might be better for a longer outing.

[Harry_Pi]

Hello capitalist!

Fantastic trip report Nate, although I think Monrow was just asking for general Mt Rainier climbing info. What do chinaman know anyway?

Thank you for allow communist to post.