[TR] Austera-Primus-Tricouni-Klawatti Tour/Climb- 4/3/2004

[Tod]

Climb: Austera-Primus-Tricouni-Klawatti Tour/Climb-

 

Date of Climb: 4/3/2004

 

Trip Report:

So not to bore you with yet another TR of the Klawatti area I'll try and keep this short and interesting (i.e. pictures):

 

Saturday 4/3/2004 - Jerry Sanchez, JB and I left the car at Eldorado Creek trailhead at 6:00am, got to Klawatti Col at 12:30pm. Sverdina and Klenke were heading up together separately and would meet us there later in the afternoon.

 

After a 2-3 hour nap/eat/hydrate session we welcomed Sverdina to Klawatti Col and then headed off to climb Austera. After 1/2 hour we had skied over to and up the false summit of Austera and were admiring JoshK and partners wonderful artwork or tracks coming down Primus. It was an incredible view.

 

We looked over the true summit that was across the way from us and I decided that I might as well take a closer look at the summit chimney that was full of ice and snow. After a false attempt using the rock on the right I climbed the chimney via 2-3 moves of mixed Class 4+ rock, snow and ice up the 10’ narrow section of the chimney. I’ve never like the sound of crampons on rock (kind of like nails on a chalkboard). The descent was about the same.

 

By the time we got back to Klawatti Col Sverdina had finished his climb of Klawatti and Klenke was setting up their tent.

 

Sunday 4/4/2004 - Jerry Sanchez, JB, Sverdina, Klenke and I left the Klawatti Col camp for Primus and within 2.5 hours was at the summit contemplating our descent(s). Jerry, JB and Klenke descended via the south route and followed their tracks back to Klawatti Col. Sverdina and I descended the east ridge of Primus (a sweet ride down! ) to Lucky Pass and climbed the west gulley/ridge of Tricouni to the summit (1 hour to the summit from Lucky Pass).

 

From the summit we traversed across to the east shoulder of Tricouni and made our descent down below the North Klawatti Glacier icefall at 6,200’. From there was a long and tortureous climb back up and across three different glaciers to camp at Klawatti Col. JB and Jerry had been back for about 3 hours and had climbed and boarded back down the south face of Klawatti.

 

JB and I had to be back in town Sunday night so we made tracks and were back at the car a half hour before dark.

 

Meanwhile back at Klawatti Col…. Jerry, Sverdina and Klenke made a cozy camp and headed back to their car on Monday after doing some further skiing and recon around Austera.

 

And now for the pictures!

 

JB and Jerry on the Inspiration Glacier (Eldorado above)

 

 

Klawatti Col Camp (Sverdina holding taking in the view)

 

 

JB at Klawatti-Austera Col

 

 

Forbidden Peak

 

Jerry on the Klawatti Glacier

 

 

Klawatti Glacier - Forbidden Peak

 

 

Sverdina boarding the Klawatti Glacier

 

 

JB and Jerry on the summit of Primus

 

 

Eldorado Peak high above Austera and Tepeh towers

 

 

The west gulley and ridge of Tricouni from Primus (Lucky Pass at bottom).

 

 

Sverdina climbing the west ridge of Tricouni Peak

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Skis and Splits

Ice Axe (for Austera and Tricouni)

Crampons (for Austera)

Overnight bivy/camp gear

 

Approach Notes:

The Eldorado Creek approach is heinous. If your trying to find the trail, it's directly across the creek from where you park your car. There are a couple good places to cross 50 yds downstream from the cars. Once across, battle your way through the creek brush for 20-30 yds and then head right for 30 yds and you'll find the trail.

[JoshK]

Ok, now I finally understand what all of you did and how it all fit together

 

Now I feel bad about not getting some pictures up. I guess I'll have to work on that today.

[Tod]

My apologies to Klenke. I forgot to add that while JB and I were heading out on Sunday evening, Klenke was coming down from his summit of Klawatti also.

 

The odd part of this whole trip is that we may have been a group of 5, but all of us were heading in different directions, at different speeds and to different peaks. The only time we all traveled as a group was up Primus.

[Billygoat]

Sweet!

 

Great pics