[TR] Chair Peak- North Face 3/13/2004

[JasonG]

Climb: Chair Peak-North Face

 

Date of Climb: 3/13/2004

 

Trip Report:

Myself, wife, and friend left the cars at ~ 6:20 am under high clouds and booted it up past source lake to the base of the north face. I think it took us around 2 hours, and conditions were excellent for walking (didn't break through). We were the first there and started up the route to find excellent ice (actual water ice) and not so excellent snow. The ice was plastic, thick, and took screws well. The snow was a bit sugary, but wasn't too insecure. In general, the face is looking a little on the thin side (although this was my first time, so I'm not sure what is normal), but still in pretty good shape.

 

We spent about an hour on top enjoying the sun and view and made a speedy return back to alpental once we got past the wallowing above source lake (we didn't bring flotation and it warmed up enough during the day to make things messy down low). Fun times!!

 

Gear Notes:

3 pickets, 5 screws, a few pins, twin 50m ropes, some took two tools, some a tool and an axe.

 

Approach Notes:

snow

[Alpinfox]

Nice Heiny!

 

 

Do you know what time you were on the summit and back at the car? How many raps did you do?

[JasonG]

I think we were on the summit between 12:30 and 1:30pm. We made one 50m rappel from the deep notch below the summit. The cornice you rap under is getting HUGE!!

[TednCda]

Good job Heinie and thanks for the tracks. We were right behind you and should have belayed at the top of the gully like you did. Tried to get a pin into that blob of rock right above your first belay and ended up simulclimbing to the to the rock on the right about 50 feet above the gully

 

Overall a great climb for both of us for our first winter climb other than an ice fall.

 

Ted