jkrueger Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 Any suggestions for some good trad climbs in the Portland area? Something in the 5.9 range would be ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 beacon rock on the washington side of the river has the best trad in the ptown area....its like 45min east town or so....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 Gandalf's Grip at Broughton's Bluff is a classic. The crux is protected by bolts, but the first-half of the first pitch and the whole second pitch are super nice 5.8 cracks. Also check out Classic Crack, which is a sweet 5.9 hand crack. Beacon is cool but won't be open for a couple of months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 Sadly, there really isnt a lot of trad in the Portland area. Beacon is the best place but as Chris pointed out, its closed due to raptor nesting until July. Â Pick up a copy of Portland Rock Climbs for more detailed info. Tim Olson just re-issued it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter_Burt Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 Madrone Wall has good trad routes in the 5.9 to 5.11 range with some really sweet 10a to 10c routes. There is usually climbable weather there at least a few days in the winter too. The problem is that it's currently closed due to access issues with the County - they wanted to quarry it. Check the board at PRG or get involved in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted May 18, 2002 Share Posted May 18, 2002 Madrone's been closed for several years. The county hasn't been very cooperative in trying to find an alternative to make everyone happy. Please don't climb at Madrone (or if you do don't get caught); it'll just make access worse. Bug the access fund. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted May 18, 2002 Author Share Posted May 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: Sadly, there really isnt a lot of trad in the Portland area. And there's even less in Eugene! Why is it that CA and WA got the good rock, and OR is full of choss? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted May 18, 2002 Share Posted May 18, 2002 If you do not mind climbing some dirt Rocky Butte has a few trad climbs if I remember (nothing note worthy). Broughton has some good ones Gandalfs Grip is a must do. Beacon is your best bet for hard cracks. Not a lot of 5.9 though. Petes Pile (Basalt Columns) across from the Cooper Spur Road in the Mt. Hood area has a lot of 5.8-5.9 trad routes. Pull out is on the right side of the road if your driving north to Hood River, easy to miss. Cool place in the Summer or a side trip on the way to Smith rock or something better in Cali, and you will probably be the only one there. Â [ 05-17-2002, 12:14 PM: Message edited by: Highlander ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted May 18, 2002 Share Posted May 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: quote:Originally posted by rbw1966: Sadly, there really isnt a lot of trad in the Portland area. And there's even less in Eugene! Why is it that CA and WA got the good rock, and OR is full of choss? Because CA and WA got all the yahoos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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