layton Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 no i'm going in 2 weeks for 2 weeks w/mr Jay "epic" Hack and Carolyn from sunny, MN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnibmilc Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 how could this tread have died so quickly? screamers are great for reducing butt cheek flutter on runout sections! how come the asses that do most protection point impact force testing use Gri-gris and/or hard anchors anyhow? i'd guess that use of a real belayer with an ATC like device is going to get the maximum force on the anchor point way down below 14kN for a clean fall. good choice of rope(s), especially for fat men and women seems supremely important to the issue of usefulness of screamers. ever seen actual impact force data for different weight climbers and different ropes? and the real deal like Dylan mentioned about the ropes EFFECTIVE length in play is probably very important. seems like the screamer is good medicine for a few very special cases. but who can carry all that stuff? for those who obsess about impact forces, consider what happens in a big pendulum type leader fall on body weight only placements. does the rope gets a chance to rebound or does it get stretched out until it has no stretch left and acts like a static line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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