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[TR] Alpental- Take Two 2/21/2004

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Climb: Alpental-Take Two


Date of Climb: 2/21/2004


Trip Report:

Saturday was a nice weather day, and my wife and I decided to head out into the Alpental backcountry for some exploring and ice climbing. We got an early start and wanted to check out some ice Mike Stanton and friends had climbed a week earlier in Great Scott Bowl.


The day was indeed a beaut, and we headed up the Alpental Valley to Source Lake, hung a left, and broke trail up to beneath the Tooth. Deep fluffy powder snow! Here we found a steep and wide wall of snow and ice, and the route Mike had climbed the previous week. We continued further up the bowl, however, drawn to the steep cliffs across from Pineapple Pass. There, in the central couloir, we saw a nice looking ice route that seemed to be in better shape than the stuff lower down the bowl, and longer. We approached the ice and stamped out a belay ledge.




The route itself is a moderate route which can be broken into 2 pitches, with a steep step about halfway up the first pitch. The usual crappy ice leads to better ice over a short pillar, then good travelling conditions to a tree anchor about 30-35m up.



From here, two options exist. A short (15ft) curtain of ice further up the left hand gully is pitch two. The right hand gully is just steep snow leading nowehere noteworhty.




The route is recommended for a couple reasons:


Its moderate. It really is WI3, with ok screws and only a short section of difficulties.

The first and most significant pitch tops out easily, to a nice live tree anchor. Unlike so many climbs in the Alpental valley, this one doesnt have a death-steep-snow top out.

Really pretty area away from most of the crowds!


There are other ice climbing possiblities in this area!


Gear Notes:

regular rack. a fluke or picket would be nice for steep snow above the ice on the second pitch


Approach Notes:

2 hours to base of route. You can also get to it with skis from Alpental - approach as for the Tooth

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