skyclimb Posted February 18, 2004 Posted February 18, 2004 Has anyone climbed the north ridge in full conditions?? How was the ridge? And the pinnacle?? Rime, or good gear? Cornices?? Thanks Quote
John Frieh Posted February 23, 2004 Posted February 23, 2004 Get your hands on Jeff Thomas’s Oregon High… I think it is back in print. He discusses/proposes a winter approach that avoids a majority of the ridge and puts on in prime conditions for sweet skiing on the descent. And you can do it in a day if you are efficient. Ice conditions on the pinnacle range from okay (for Oregon… i.e. you should have driven to BC) to rimey. Basically conditions will be dependent on prevailing weather pattern leading up to climb. Take a couple of shorties, a few pickets, 2-3 angles, some mid sized nuts and a partner that doesn’t know that ice/alpine routes generally get better the farther North you drive. If you insist on alpine in OR, go climb Thielsen. Excellent, short approach, good pro on the pinnacle and easy in a day. Cornices? Are you kidding? This is Oregon. You want cornices; go climb Emperor Ridge on Robson. Them are some cornices. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.