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Posted

Climb: Hood-South

 

Date of Climb: 2/8/2004

 

Trip Report:

Awoke in the t-line parking lot at 3:00 to a beautiful full moon, and howling winds. Began climbing, no headlamp needed. Put in the boot path up to the summit. Instead of skirting Crater Rock, climbed a 500 ft. couloir, and then a mixed step up the west face. Made it to within 50 feet of the top before hollow ice started collapsing. Decided to forgo that, and continue up the hogsback. By now I was in the lenticular, and snow was flying. Summitted, returned.

 

Gear Notes:

shoulda had rope, hexes, and partner for crater rock

 

Approach Notes:

good boot path, variation to the normal way

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Posted

Skyclimb,

Thanks for the steps! I probably talked to you at ~10,000' as you were descending. We found that the conditions on the summit were somewhat more 'pleasant' than the rest of the climb

Posted

going up there on Wednesday, what do you say: crampons, snowshoes, or neither on that day?

 

Oh yeah and is there any kind of significant avy risk, particularly in the chute near the top?

Posted

I'd recommend some skis, or maybe some skis. There's a possibility that skis might be helpful.

 

The entire chute has slid out before and dumped into the bergschrund that forms up there later in the year. It does not routinely rip out though. Personal inspection and forecast analysis go w/o saying, of course. A lot will depend on how hot this Wx gets the snowpack up there. I'd expect to see some sun-related activity in the west crater rim area and wy'east for sure.

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