HeadSpace Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 anyone have any current beta on this climb; old bolts?, pro to 4"?, pitch 4 complete or not? not interested in grade difficulty. just compiling tick list notes, thanx........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 The Diamond has room for many new routes, climbing HBFG would be just as much dirty work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted January 31, 2004 Share Posted January 31, 2004 The sad thing about Index is that very people ever travel off the very well beaten path to the base of the Lower Wall. As a general rule all the less traveled routes will be a bit dirty. While it isn’t current beta my experience is consistent with Lance’s. Many years ago the first pitch was awful mostly due to dirt sloughing off of the ledge above. The main corner is however a pretty impressive feature and looks very appealing. My understanding is that the bolts are ¼” You might want to try Jack O Diamonds instead if you’re set on a Diamond route. All the published topos of JOD are a bit off but I think some of the bolts may have been upgraded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 1, 2004 Share Posted February 1, 2004 Jack Of Diamonds has sat there growing grass, another lost classic...50 feet away from one of the most popular long routes at Index. A perfect example of a route that deserved more play. Good call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Headspacer owns plenty of wire brushes and has the time and energy to revive one of these "lost classics". I'll bet he has the ability to upgrade any faulty hardware as well. Get to work Beyotch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 4, 2004 Share Posted February 4, 2004 i wondered about the route and headed up there in the rain....i cant wait to get back and do some scrubbing.... too bad i lost my index guide book and can no longer peruse and dream Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted February 4, 2004 Share Posted February 4, 2004 Erik - When are you coming back? Looks like there will be lots of new routes this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 9, 2004 Share Posted February 9, 2004 we should be back in the area around june or so.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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