Dru Posted December 29, 2003 Posted December 29, 2003 (edited) TAIKONAUT 50m WI4 Drive to Terzaghi dam Take a left as if you are going to Shalath. Park at Carpenter Lake rec site Point your feet uphill and march! for 1.5-2 hours. Use forest or gully whatever is faster depending on snow conditions. You will find yourself in an amphitheater with 3 possible routes. a skinny, partly mixed little pillar on the left, a big fat floe of blue ice in the middle and a shorter mixed gully ramp on the right. The central line now is "Taikonaut" 50m WI4ish unless evidence of an unreported earlier ascent surfaces (Lyle told me this line was unclimbed in 2001 and I haven't heard of any since but who knows?) Vaguely Bow Falls ish, you could probably sneak a WI3+ by following the lines of weakness back and forth or get a harder 4 by going straight up the steepest part. The climb is a 30m pillar then a big snowy terrace and another 10m WI3 to finish. Worth doing. After finishing climb descend to road (~45 min) drive back to Lillooet for I hour. Steve Harng led it and I was the token belay slave Edited December 29, 2003 by Dru Quote
jordop Posted December 29, 2003 Posted December 29, 2003 Steve and Drew So which is the correct spelling? What happened to New Years at Mugs? Quote
jordop Posted December 29, 2003 Posted December 29, 2003 You'll have to enlighten us as to the etymology of the route name . . . I'm drivin that road in 12 hrs. Maybe I'll throw some tools in the truck just in case Quote
Dru Posted December 29, 2003 Author Posted December 29, 2003 US = astronaut Russia = cosmonaut Chinese = taikonaut Quote
JayB Posted December 29, 2003 Posted December 29, 2003 Nice Work. Any of you Canadian folks know the temperature forecast for this week? We're getting the first frost in about a month in a half down here so I'm hoping LittleWet is getting hit by the same cold front.... Quote
Dru Posted December 29, 2003 Author Posted December 29, 2003 (edited) Night N Gale yup Shriek missing top 15m Gift... almost in, soooo close Theft, coming along nicely but minimal ice in the chimney yet Boulder Cr falls no ice on top pitches New Leash on Life nope House of Cards ice blobs, M10 hardmen get on it it takes crack pro capricorn, upper pillars Y, lower pillars (avoidable) no plan B thin hell creek wet cedarvale cr holes but climbable (fun to fill out a day if you up there) the virgin/mix master just about touch down blackbird approach ice in but pillar nonexistant old dogs, in but knida thin and scary looking on the crux pillar, fattening fat, should be in in a few more days. steristrip might be in but still can't find the bolts michelmoon got a big gaping hole jade falls one pillar and one hanging dagger prob more 4 than 3 silk degrees, neither the bottom or top are there but the middle is. who's got a hilti? nothing much south of lillooet or in the fraser canyon is in. bridge and duffy is where it's at. Edited December 29, 2003 by Dru Quote
Dru Posted December 29, 2003 Author Posted December 29, 2003 it snowed about an inch in lillooet and was about -4C at night and 0C in the day. says it should be cold all week. old dogs new picks and the theft seemed to get visibly fatter between saturday and sunday Quote
Dru Posted December 29, 2003 Author Posted December 29, 2003 steve placing first screw note icicle in background indicating vertical. sorry bout the tilt! Quote
JayB Posted December 29, 2003 Posted December 29, 2003 Word. I am just want Honeyman to be in once so that I can snag the cushiest day of ice climbing this side of Ouray.... Will probably be up there Thursday through Sunday if anyone wants to meet up for some brews in the evenings. Quote
Dru Posted December 29, 2003 Author Posted December 29, 2003 On the legendary lyle Knight "Ice Map" Taikonaut is located at the top of the gully (where it gets steep) approx. midway between the "text bars" of Mix Master and the Virgin. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.