Reid Headwall

[sketchfest]

Weather permitting (and it doesn't look like it will) I'm planning a bomb run on the Reid late tonight/early Saturday morning. I climbed about half the route last Saturday untill I turned around, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the route finding is as straight forward on the upper half as it is on the lower half. I appreciate all beta.

[willstrickland]

It's pretty easy for routefinding, there are ALOT of options up high. Check out this picture for a very good look at the Reid. (This site has THE best photos of Hood I've seen for scoping climbing lines, although the routes aren't overlayed, the photos themselves are great)Reid/Palmer

[jaee]

Get a copy of Oregon High. Those route descriptions are right on. Forget that Smoot book as his vague descriptions, inaccurate topos, and random rating scale are useless.

The most frequently traveled route up Reid Glacier Headwall seems to traverse slightly downward below Castle Crags after leaving the saddle. There are a few nasty steps if you try to stay too high and you'll tree yourself on those. Drop down until you can see the 'schrund, then aim for the weaknesses there. Once over that, follow the path of least resistance, which is usually a route that leads slightly left, towards the Queen's chair. If you hit a spectacular snow arete leading into a narrow chute, you're right on target. Up thru these chutes are sometimes a few ice bands, but they're probably covered this year. Once in the chutes head straight up and catch the ridge or traverse left and hit the Queen's chair.

[sketchfest]

Thanks for the info. I have a copy of Oregon High, but was wondering about the section the book shows as hidden. I hope the weather holds because the route looks sweet.