Any Pinnacles (CA) recommendations/beta?

[mmcmurra]

Sorry to leave the Cascades for a while (both topic-wise and bodily), but maybe someone here can help me out:I'm going to Monterey, CA for three days in a few weeks. Pinnacles National Monument is real close, so I figure we're going to spend a day there. I'm normally not hesitant to accumulate another guidebook, but this one's pretty pricey and there's a good chance this could be the only day I ever climb there. There's no handy "Chockstone Classics" guide or anything to help, either.

So! Any of you folks been there and have suggestions (and/or a guidebook you'd let me borrow/rent )? We'll be coming from the west, so West Side routes are probably going to be the best. I guess I lead about 5.9 trad and .10+ sport, but since this rock will be quite foreign to me (my brief experience at Fossil Rock may finally come in handy!), I'll be looking for some pretty easy leads, at least to start the day. I'm going to bring the trad rack and would like to use it, though I know there's bolts o' plenty and the rock doesn't take gear too well.

ANYWAY! Thanks for any suggestions, even the "dude, just go climb something that looks nice" ones, which I just might do.

Thanks,Michael

[ 04-03-2002: Message edited by: mmcmurra ]

[Dan_Harris]

You might try checking Friends of Pinnacles

[ 04-03-2002: Message edited by: Dan Harris ]

[mmcmurra]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dan Harris:

You might try checking

Friends of Pinnacles

[ 04-03-2002: Message edited by: Dan Harris ]

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Thanks, Dan, I had, and that's the source of pretty much all the information I have about the place. Which isn't bad at all, and for most people would probably be plenty -- Clint Cummins's web page also even has some topos and new route information.

So I'm being a loser and asking for even more! For example, for the FOP-recommended "Regular route" on Elephant Rock, how do I find it? Maybe the park entrance even has map handouts ... I just don't know these things and don't want to waste too much time wandering around while we're there.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

[Dan_Harris]

I wish I could help you more, but my vertical climbing has been in a gym and scrambling on rock.Have you tried the Pinnacles section of Rock Climbing.com I have gone in the west entrance and hiked along the Balconies trail. Walk about 0.6 mile and take the left fork. There are numerous routes (pretty well signed) along here including the Balconie Cliffs. Most are bolted I believe. Check with the ranger if headed for the high peaks as I believe there are some closures for raptor nesting. PM or e-mail me (dharris25@excite.com) when you know the exact date. For me it would have to be a weekend though. I would love to head over there to watch, visit and learn what I can.

[ 04-04-2002: Message edited by: Dan Harris ]

[ 04-04-2002: Message edited by: Dan Harris ]

[glen]

Rule of Thumb for Pinnacles: if you see a hold you aren't sure about, take it out, examine it and, if you like it, put it back in and use it."

I used to live in Santa Cruz and did a fair amount of climbing in Pinnacles as a result. Before you put your shoes in your bag, make sure to put your helmet in. This is a necessity, especially on the west side of the park. There are bolts-a-plenty, but treat them with respect, as many of them are old, scary and some have failed resulting in bad, bad things. Look out for Star Dryvens and Leeper hangers. The guidebook (stolen and I never bothered to replace it) I had actually had a whole section on bolts in the beginning.

The being said, there are a few things to do there. On the west end of Machete Ridge, if you want an easy climb to start out on, try Twinkle Toes traverse (5.6). It has a really nice garbage can handle as the first pro on the second pitch- bring two ropes for the rap. Bienvenidos a Pinnacles (dos equis) is a fun 5.8 just to the right. If Lava falls (5.9) (on the Balconies) is open, it is a heady lead up a cuisinart water chute for two pitches. There area couple of nice 5.8 and 5.9 (Apples and bits and Dogleg sound right...) on the Flumes wall.

As to getting detailed beta, I would take this list of routes, go to the local shop with tracing paper and copy the relevant pages. There are likely to be other climbers there that you can do the same to in the parking lot.

Don't forget your helmet and be aware of parties climbing above you! I nicknamed a partner Bullseye for his ability to peg my helmet with rocks while climbing.

[J_Fisher]

I spent 1/2 day there during a visit to Monterrey around New Years. I thought the area was pretty cool, but the rock is less than perfect. It's volcanic breccia, a lot the crumblier stuff at Smith. We did a 5.8 gear route (Ordeal; fun and really easy), a 10a gear route (Jebs Crack?; a steep tips crack in a corner with a couple sketchy moves on less than reassuring gear) and Wet Kiss (5.9 bolted climbing featuring big moves on huge juggy knobs). Unfortunately, just as we were getting warmed up it started to pour, so we headed back and finished the day getting way-rad at the Monterey aquarium.

Since the west side has a reputation for shitty rock and longer approaches, we just went to the east side. Drive was ~2 hours from Pacific Grove, but we left really early so I'd plan on more time if you do it while the rest of the world is not asleep. The approach to the main east side crag is about 5 minutes or less.

E-mail (or PM) if you want more beta or to borrow my topos.

[glen]

Ordeal and Wet Kiss are on the East side of the park. In general, the climbs and rock quality are both better on the east side. Hence, the crowds tend to be a bit thicker there. If you do make the trek to the East side of the park (note, you have to go around, the road doesn't go through the park), you should hit up Relayer and Castles made of sand on the Upper Crust Wall. The Monolith tends to be a circus and is worth avoiding for that reason, athough if uncrowded, is worth it. Coyote Ugly is a fun and long 5.9 lead (but don't lead the 10c variation if you value your skin intact). Ali Baba is pretty fun too.

[J_Fisher]

We had the crag to ourselves, but it was 12/30 and rainy, so YMMV considerably . . .