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Posted

I can't seem to figure out which leashes are the best if one plans to waterfall climb and alpine climb on the same tools.

 

The BD lockdowns are great for alpine climbing, but really are not very comfortable for steep ice. All the clippable leashes (androids, Charlet version, etc.) are nice for waterfalls, but not so nice for alpine stuff. I've found the Grivel Fast leashes to be the most comfortable, but they are a bit finicky and slow for getting in and out. The BD twist leashes have almost no security in terms of dropping a tool. Perhaps the Grivel Easy-G is the way to go, although I certainly wish it weren't so bulky.

 

Obviously, I'm a bit too picky, but do any of you have other ideas/opinions?

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Posted

colin, the new cm leash seems to be quite nice. i haven't climb with them, but when i tried it it was easy to clip in and out. i use andreoids, even for alpine. for less steep or to plunge i just use it unclipped.

last trip i climbed for a couple of days leashless. far, far better, specially for mixed. there is always a danger of dropping your tool, so add an extra pair of these bd plastic clippers , just for your tools. you can modify any tool to climb leashless, lot's of climbers in the rockies do. i will be making my rages into leashless this week. hope it helps.... bigdrink.gif

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