Strobach conditions update...

[sobo]

... NOT!

 

So Cragg and I decided that we had to go in yesterday. Not content with using the familiar Preston/Nevers approach, I thought we'd give the Motherlode approach a go. There's a bit of compact snow on the roads above the 1201 intersection and past Kloochman's, but nothing a 4x4 can't handle. Be careful on the way down, tho, as ice on the washboards can (and did) cause a loss of control. Oh, the "609" sign is still there, but you gotta be looking for it. It's just under 3/4 of a mile after you pass the "parking area" (looks like an old gravel pit operation) for Kloochman Rock.

 

Anyway, after realizing (too late) that we weren't following geordie's, J-WOO's, and BigWave's footprints from the week before, we endured serious schwackin' that ultimately brought us to the extreeeeme left end of the Motherlode area. So much for the "only 30 minutes away" promise. Our fault.

 

Nothing to the left of First on the Left is in, or even near that.

 

The big yellow drip (Third or Second on the Left??) is forming, but is a long way from touching down.

 

First on the Left itself is very thin and discontinuous. Not climbable at the advertised grade.

 

Sudden Change of Plan is not in.

 

Sab Ce'bu *could* be climbed if you were desperate for ice and wildly serious, but it's not worth the trudge in. It's a freakin' shower, and we got rained on by shit while we were standing under it looking at it and deciding. The shitfall made our decision for us. "Run awaaaay!"

 

Right Stuff: fageddaboudit.

 

Dropline looks the best of all of the Motherlode climbs way up high (the top two columns are forming, but only the upper column has made it to the rest below it), but the first pitch has yet to form. This could be the year for Dropline's FA.

 

Nothing between Dropline and Ice Dreams is in.

 

Ice Dreams is running like a garden hose. It's building, but it's a long way off before it becomes continuous and climbable at the advertised grade.

 

We started over to Split Rock Camp to take a look at First Ice on the Right, but Cragg was bitchin' so bad about the scree/boulder field and all the near-misses of sprained ankles and broken legs, that we bagged it when we were just around the corner from the Septum, so no beta there.

 

Rather than trudge out the way we came in, we decided to follow the published directions for the exit, and headed due north out of Separation Gully and hit Road 609 a bit east of its terminus and a little more than hour from leaving.

 

Lessons Learned: Wait a bit longer (till after the end of this month), and be prepared for longer than advertised approach times due to low snow and a lot of treacherous boulder-picking. As of this writing, leave the skis/snowshoes in the truck. It's a better boot trek than anything with floatation right now. Bring ski poles, tho. You'll be glad you did when you hit the boulderfields.

 

All in all, it was a great day to take the gear for a walk.

[Alex]

thanks for the update! I almost went over with the snomo today, and the rain here in town deterred me...now I am glad I didnt go

 

as far as the travel through those boudlerfields, yeah its better when there is no snow at all or enough heavy/consolidated snow to make it smooth sailing with snowshoes on, though if the ice is in, it usually makes it "better"

[sobo]

Alex said:

thanks for the update! I almost went over with the snomo today, and the rain here in town deterred me...now I am glad I didnt go

 

Don't mention it. Good thing you stayed put; looks like you had fun at the Rap Wall.

[BigWave]

Good on ya Sobo! Sorry you missed Jwoo's big herkin foot prints. The ice will come!