beta request ne buttress higher cathedral rock

[scott]

next on my list, interested in beta on the wide sections, how run out are the offwidths and chimneys.

thanks

[Lambone]

Hey Scott,

 

This route kicks ass! I led the 5.8 chimney pitch. It is not run out, there is gear in the back of the chimney. It starts with a handcrack in a corner, then you pull a roof which goes into the wide chimney to squeeze offwidth, then you bust out and lie back for a few feet to a bomber hand crack. It is a long pitch so use long runners and watch rope drag. I had heinous drag and ran out of gear, had to build the belay out of tiny nuts and my chalkbag biner. It was hard, but I think I remember this pitch better than any other I have ever led, and it was almost 10 years ago. Put the rack on the inside, so you can reach the gear. Seconding with the pack is way worse than leading it. I remember getting a couple of helmet jams in

 

The only other wide section I can remember was the last pitch, but I think we were off route, in the dark. It was like a 50' 4 inch crack that I walked a number 4 the whole way up.

 

We brought a set of nuts, set of cams up to #4, and set of hexes. Doubles on the small to mid size cams would be nice, hexs are good for builing your belays. The route is well protected the whole way, mostly hand cracks with a few finger cracks, the only face climbing I remember is the traverse in the middle, very exposed pitch!

 

Great route, probably the best free climb I have ever done. Start super early this time of year, it is a long sustained day. Good luck!

[scott]

thanks. now i just have to find some sucker to carry the pack through the chimneys.

[Lambone]

My partner (crazy German sport climber), ended up clipping the pack to a runner below his harness. You'd never fit with the pack on your back.

 

He was so pissed, that was his first chimney!

[Highlander]

I would echo what Lambone said. I led that 5.9 pitch and felt it was long and sustained. Lots of flaring chimneys on the pitch as I remember. I felt the 5.9 squeeze section was the crux for me, but it protected well. I too ran out of pro and eventually made it to a tree after running it out quite a ways. Fun route and deffinatly a full body workout. Do not take a pack, you will regret it. Get an early start.

[mneagle]

I agree that this is a great route and getting up it is a major achievement. Check your watch before making the traverse. Once you're across it you are fairly committed. My partner also carried the pack suspended from a few girth-hitched runners. The belay above the squeeze chimney is a memorable one, perched atop a jutting block. It's a very physical climb and a bit of a sandbag but I don't remember it being very runout. Definitely rack gear on the left side. Enjoy.

[plexus]

It is a great route, takes gear well (standard rack suited us fine). Unfortunately I had the pack on the chimney pitch, which made chimneying not an option for me and my belayer seriously I think has ADHD (we had two-ways and he forgot to turn his on), so stopping and removing the pack really wasn't an option. Felt like strenuous 10 for me on that chimney section.