Cuernos Principal

[montdo]

Hi All-

 

Plannin on a patagonia trip in Jan. Cuernos Principal looks good - I have been searching for beta for months, including a day in the mountaineers library, ordering ancient journals, and emailing people all over chile. It seems it has only been climbed twice and the first time is in question. I cannot find any more info - the old AAJ and AJ references give a simple one liner or so about it but dont give any beta. (This is actually pretty cool - its more exciting this way...) - but if anyone had any beta or any idea of what climbing on that black shale stuff thats stacked on top of the granite is like Id appreciate it.

Thanks -

[Jim]

Oh man - if you're going all the way down there stay away from that crap! It's only been climbed a couple of times because it's a death trap. We hiked up the shoulder to just get a look at it and it's grim. If you need a long climb jump on the one of the Paine Towers. Some nice long treks up thru the British Camp and over the col. Honestly, there's more interesting climbing down there.

[montdo]

Hey -

thanks for the response - why did you head up it? Were you making an atempt and bailed b/c of poor rock? I guess I thought it was a pretty mtn with a elusive hx and thus would be interesting. Did you actually do some climbing on the shale proper?

 

What did you climb down there? I am also interested in Fitz Roy, the north tower and aguja guillamet. Do you have any personal tips on any of these?

Thanks - I also want to jet to ushuaia for a few days - spend any time down there?

Thanks!

[Lambone]

jim could be syearing you away for a reason...

[Jim]

montdo said:

Hey -

thanks for the response - why did you head up it? Were you making an atempt and bailed b/c of poor rock? I guess I thought it was a pretty mtn with a elusive hx and thus would be interesting. Did you actually do some climbing on the shale proper?

 

What did you climb down there? I am also interested in Fitz Roy, the north tower and aguja guillamet. Do you have any personal tips on any of these?

Thanks - I also want to jet to ushuaia for a few days - spend any time down there?

Thanks!

 

We had no intention of climbing that thing - just out for a trek in the park, and curious. We made a half-hearted attempt on Fitzroy, but we didn't really have the time to commit to it. Bailed after 4 pitches. We choose to climb some less commiting peaks and travel around for the several months we had.

 

If you're really commited to climbing something big in southern Patagonia my best advice is make sure you have lots of time. You can literally sit around for 5 weeks waiting for a 3 day stretch of good weather. Quite frankley we could have gotten over our heads on Fitzroy real soon - we're not the big boys, just hackers.

 

But we did get up Cerro Solo (glacier) at the head of the valley near Camp Bridwell, Cerro Madsen (mostly 3rd/4th, summit pinnacle 5th) near Fizroy, Orosorno (volcano near Puerto Montt), and great pinnacle rock climbing at the Refugio Frey (including Torre Principal) near Baralochie, Argentina.

 

Didn't make it to ushuaia, but I heard from travellers that it's a cool place. Very good fly-fishing opportunities down there.

[montdo]

Hey thanks for the response

 

I still might try on principal - time and weather and etc. Im used to pulling on mank. Im originally from MT and the principal looks like a montana mountain in every way.

 

Wow - first four pitches - congrats! Assuming you did the franco-argentine, how was the first 5.10a pitch? was it really 5.10a, and how protectable was it? Did you do any aiding in boots or did you lead in shoes (or boots?)?

 

How long is the approach (time wise - I have the map...) to the base of fitz roy - looks like a short distance but looks liek it could be fairly technical and involved.

 

Could yu (would you) establish a base camp at la silla (base of the franco-argentine)?

 

Of both cerro solo and madsen, which gave you the most rewarding experience and views?

 

Sorry for all the qs but you are really my only resource.

 

Thanks - any info much appreciated.