bobbyperu Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 so TimL and i met up on saturday at index for some cold rock climbing, we saw some friends in the lot and headed up to the upper wall... my day had started off with a drive from b-ham, espresso and excitement over where the day would take us, i was buzzing just like neon... i had never climbed with Tim but was psyched to share a rope after meeting him earlier in the summer in shazama, and now we were at index on a beautiful day... tim wanted to get on a root that had been put up recently on the section of cliff to the left of davis holland and the sport wall. "heavens gate" the climb starts with the 1st pitch of lamplighter, a burly chimney, to a sweet corner crack, and on to a good station. the next pitch involves moving the belay right 30 ft or so, where you can ditch the rack, grag all the qds you can carry, and get psyched for 400+ ft of lovely steep face climbing. The route is set up wonderfully! great protection, clean rock, bomber stations, and set up for straight forward raps. the first ascentionists did it right. the climbing itself is amazing... cruxy bulges, long, sustained, thoughtful face climbing with awesome exposure. good stances or ledges at belays. and the final pitch as out there as anything, pulling two roofs with distintly different moves, hanging hundreds of feet over the forest... heavenly, much props to to those involved with establishing this route, and to tim, a great partner whom i look forward to climbing with again "Heavens Gate"- go do this route or go to hell -bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 Sorry we missed y'all in the country. We took off cause it was getting dark and shit. Did you and Tim end up getting on that route by Orc Tower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted November 3, 2003 Author Share Posted November 3, 2003 yeah sorry we missed ya... well we set a tr on it... it was looking a little hardr than what we wanted to lead at the time, probly wouldda been safer that the sketchfest setting the tr, but it was cool, and hard-we'll be back sorry we missed the -next time-bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 What a great route. Thanks to bobbyperu for cranking with me and the folks who put the route up. It’s a must do route with short hard cruxes and fun moderate terrain spaced in between. The first bolted pitch is a full on rope stretcher. I was wondering if it would ever end. I think it’s important that people do this route so it’s not reclaimed.  It was good seeing all the Index bros and to bad we missed you Specialed. That route we tr’d was friggin hard.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted November 5, 2003 Author Share Posted November 5, 2003 can someone move this to spray... it reads kinda like a bad TR... and who here really gives a rip about amazingly fun and spectaculary beautiful friggin rock climbs ice maaann ice!!! - me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Got on it yesterday - Bobby's right, this route is spectacular - Don't need anything bigger than a #3 for the first pitch, but bring a #4 anyway to TR the offwidth 15 feet to the left - it's a whole lot of fun (You'd probably want a #5 or tube chock to lead the route to the left . . .) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted June 28, 2005 Author Share Posted June 28, 2005 word! anyone done the centerfold/lovin' arms/heavens gate enchainment...? wanna..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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