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Posted

OK, I was browsing some sites on the web looking at rainier pictures when I came across this one. Is it just me or does any one else find this to be a fairly bad place to stop at take pictures? This is directly below the ice cliff on Kautz.

ice_clif.jpg

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Posted

That is the chute you drop down from Camp Hazard, right? It has changed since I was there in 95.

We camped at Hazard, which was bad enough, but a crew came through, dropped into the chute, and set up camp just below where you make the U-turn to head back up. Yikes.

Posted

That's the gully all right. When I went through there in June 1999 we did not rope up in the gully or the ice chute. There was a question of hidden crevasses on the chute, but to rope up would have also required a belay and we preferred to climb it unroped. I timed our passage through the exposed area: 4 minutes on ascent (when you travel downhill thru the gully), 9 minutes on descent. It was way warm by the time we got back down, and we stood around for a few minutes to consider alternatives, but there really aren't any: once you descend below the gully on the glacier you're still exposed. Apparently some parties rappel directly down the cliffs, which would at least reduce the time of exposure (maybe).

I have a nice panoramic photo of almost the same spot which I'll have to take home so I can scan it in.

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