rodeo Posted March 4, 2002 Share Posted March 4, 2002 Hey all. I'll be making my first trip to JTree towards the end of April. My first official road trip as an unemployed guy if things don't shape up soon. Anyway, having never been there, I need some suggestions as to which route guides for the area are best. Also, what's the situation down there? Sport, trad, what? Any insider info as to the best places for "uncrowded" climbs? Bring it on fellas.... (--Climb on,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 4, 2002 Share Posted March 4, 2002 The Vogel guide is the bible (and there is now a shorter "Select" version) but there are others that may have advantages. (Other would have better info on that than I do.) There are 5000+ routes so it's hard to know where to start. I've only been on 50 or so but here are some ideas: Echo Rock and environs: very popular since close to the HV Campground. Home to lots of classics such as Heart and Sole, Pope's Crack, etc. Hall of Horrors: classic cracks (Exorcist, Diamond Dogs) and some good face climbing; moderately crowded. Real Hidden Valley: all sorts of moderate cracks; again, close to the road and can be crowded. Loose Lady (9+ faceclimb) on nearby Hauser Buttress is a blast. Wonderland: easy to get lost out there but less crowded because of the walk. I've only done some of the moderate routes (Room to Shroom, Mental Physics) but routes such as Figures on a Landscape and stuff at the Bighorn Mating Grotto sound outstanding. Lost Horse Wall: longer routes than most at Josh and they protect well. Dappled Mare is fun, as is Bird on a Wire. Never crowded when I've been there but that was in December (but during the Xmas break, so...) If you climb at a high level (10b and up), a whole lot more climbs are open to you, but better climbers than I will have to describe those offerings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 4, 2002 Share Posted March 4, 2002 Ok, over 3000 routes, if you need solitude just get out of the immediate area of Hidden Valley CG, Intersection Rock, and Real Hidden Valley's most popular stuff. Single pitch trad on rough quartz monzonite is the game, but bolted routes and multi-pitch exist. Camping is free (no water at the CG), but arrive during the week if you wish to get a decent spot. For guide books, you can go the Falcon route for a select guide, or buy one of the multiple volumes of paperback at Nomad Ventures (the local shop). I had the Hidden Valley CG area paperback guide and it served me well over the course of a 12 day trip. Be prepared for stout ratings, cheese grater rock, and a great time! You can stay busy for a month or more without ever walking more than half an hour from the CG. Wear pants, and if you're inclined, take a mountain bike. If you're freaky, take some fungus...you won't regret it. I can't remember doing any routes that were a "bust", got humbled by some easy stuff, and climbed one of the harder .10 pitches I've ever been on. Beware of the "ball bearing" slabs that you'll often be using for descents. If you've got some of those shoes with heel tread, this is a great place to use them. Have fun ya bum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo Posted March 4, 2002 Author Share Posted March 4, 2002 Thanks for the beta Will and Bob. I forgot to ask about what the average pitch length is and what would be a standard rack to take since I'll be flying down. I'm heading over towards Sedona right after but haven't figured which area I'll try to climb there yet. From what I've read so far, I'm thinking I might try a place down near Winslow that sounded a little better than the "mace". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 take a #3 and #4 camalot up every route since if you don't place it on the route, you will place it for the anchor!! expect to build gear anchors even on top of 'sport' routes and remember: TAPE IS AID!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 Most pitches are pretty short -- <= 100'. A double set of cams through #3 plus some small/medium wires would get you through most stuff. If you're light on cams, you can make good use of hexes on most routes. If you just concentrate on sport routes, you can of course get by with even less, but since there are so many good cracks, I'd advise taking a real rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_w Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 Thanks for the info Guys, and Rodeo thanks for the post. I was going to ask the same question today. I am on a roadtrip next week and the first stop is Jtree for a couple of days then over to red rocks. This will be my first time so I'll give you a trip report when I get back. chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 Oops -- forgot about anchors (for some reason). Dru is right! You do need some of the bigger stuff for anchors and for some of the classic OWs, too, if that is to your liking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo Posted March 5, 2002 Author Share Posted March 5, 2002 Good deal Chris, and thanks a million. The JTree trip got confirmed last night and I will only get Saturday and Sunday to climb, so I'll need to get a guide book for the area soon. Thanks for all the good beta about routes and racks everyone. I'll definitely take lots of photos so I can post/share them when I return. Have fun Chris (--Climb on,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 in the Vogel guidebook, a lot of good routes don't have stars. some routes without stars are as good as routes that he gives two or three stars. so don't be afraid of doing no-star climbs. in red rocks, get ahold of the urioste guide if planning to do long routes, it is a good supplement to the swain book, especially for areas like windy peak, although out of date, it has better pictures and approach beta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: in red rocks, get ahold of the urioste guide if planning to do long routes, it is a good supplement to the swain book, especially for areas like windy peak, although out of date, it has better pictures and approach beta. And, the Urisotes put up alot of those routes in the first place, so the info as far as crack sizes, etc should be on the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: And, the Urisotes put up alot of those routes in the first place, so the info as far as crack sizes, etc should be on the money. yeah, just about every route says "bring a 5 or 6 inch piece". or "this good crack, protected by 6 bolts" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 Never seen their guide, that sounds pretty funny though...who was the publisher, when was the last press run, etc? I've seen mention of three separate guides to RR (that's 3 different authors, not counting the Swain "select" in these) Anyone know about the third one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Never seen their guide, that sounds pretty funny though...who was the publisher, when was the last press run, etc? I've seen mention of three separate guides to RR (that's 3 different authors, not counting the Swain "select" in these) Anyone know about the third one? the Urioste book was published in 1982 (red cover) by American Alpine Club. reprinted (white cover) in 1999. the 3rd separate guidebook is a 1992 "guide to red rocks and area" by some dude maybe Mike Clifford? it is referenced passingly in the newest Swain guide. [ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 Trivia note on the Uriostes: at the last belay on Prince of Darkness, some of the original hangers are there, each imprinted with the JU (Jorge Urioste) stamp. It's amazing how many routes they put up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 Trivia note on the Uriostes: at the last belay on Prince of Darkness, some of the original hangers are there, each imprinted with the JU (Jorge Urioste) stamp. It's amazing how many routes they put up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by bobinc: Trivia note on the Uriostes: at the last belay on Prince of Darkness, some of the original hangers are there, each imprinted with the JU (Jorge Urioste) stamp. It's amazing how many routes they put up! If you post everything twice, it's amazing how many posts you can put up, too! [ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: If you post everything twice, it's amazing how many posts you can put up, too! [ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: Dru ] And, it give your point extra emphasis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: If you post everything twice, it's amazing how many posts you can put up, too! [ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: Dru ] And, it give your point extra emphasis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobinc Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 "Never attribute to malice what can be explained by incompetence." -- Napolean Bonaparte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by bobinc: It's amazing how many routes they put up! Its also amazing how many bolts are on that thing (P of D). 14 bolts per pitch or something. Were they hand drilling those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Its also amazing how many bolts are on that thing (P of D). 14 bolts per pitch or something. Were they hand drilling those? yup. of course in sandstone it takes like 5 minutes to hand drill a bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 Being a regular visitor to joshua tree (and an average climber) here is my "must do list" in the hidden valley campground area: The flake 5.8 (my personal favorite), north overhang bypass 5.7, (both on intersection), doublecross 5.7, dogleg 5.8, sexy grandma (not in the book- new route to the right of doublecross, probably 5.10 , geronemo 5.7- roof on the backside of dogleg *%##! wild!(all on the old woman) the flu 5.8, pinched rib 5.10b, the eye 5.0 (on the cyclops), and walk on the wildside 5.7+ (the longest route at jtree). Keep in mind that some of these rating will seem low- jtree is notorious for sandbagging. Stay in the hidden valley campground- camping is free and sites are hard to come by. Bring lots of water, as there is none in the park. When in town, eat at santanas (in yucca valley) good cheap food! Have fun!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 6, 2002 Share Posted March 6, 2002 pinched rib is more like 9+ than 10b and in fact is listed as 9+ in photos of it in climbing mag. one move wonder but fun. i would personally recommend checking out the DQ Wall for some sandbags. only time I ever fell on a 5.7. and the hardest roof crack i've ever tried - Grit Roof 10c at Hall of Horrors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted March 6, 2002 Share Posted March 6, 2002 Originally posted by Dru:[QB]pinched rib is more like 9+ than 10b and in fact is listed as 9+ in photos- hey! be quite. I've been telling everyone that I led a 10b at jtree! Don't ruin it for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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