Shuksan summit pyramid question

[Rad]

I'm thinking of taking some relative newbies up Shuksan via the Sulphide glacier.

 

I've heard the central gully/scramble on the summit pyramid can be jammed with rock-trundling yahoos. I think I remember hearing that the East (or was it South) ridge is an attractive alternative with decent rock and easy 5th class moves.

 

My questions are:

 

Is there a route there and if so which ridge?

Is the rock any good on it?

Is there pro to be found?

Is it worthwhile or should we just don our helmets, wait in line, and hope the yahoos don't drop anything on us?

Finally, is there snow on the S face of the pyramid? (Despite the storm last week the recent sun would suggest to me it any snow may have melted.)

FYI, the friends I'd be taking up will not be capable of climbing steep verglas or ice.

Thanks much.

[cluck]

Hey Rad - We climbed this back in August and took the East Ridge variation up the summit pyramid for exactly that reason. We found the ridge to be very enjoyable climbing. Solid rock that took pro OK and had 2 or 3 rap stations already set up. We chose to simul-climb it with minimal pro, but you could easily climb it with active belays (obviously it would be much slower).

 

The route we took was almost entirely on the ridge crest except once when we decided it would be easier to traverse out onto the south face a bit before climbing back up to the ridge. The ridge is mostly 4th class with a few very short steps where there is a move or two of low 5th. Maybe one spot where the move was 5.6 but it was right under a rap station.

 

We descended unroped down the central gulley.

 

 

Good luck!

[Norman_Clyde]

There is also a route up the northwestern edge of the pyramid. Take the gully at climber's left when approaching the pyramid from the west. This was non-exposed 3rd class with a couple of 10 to 15 foot 4th class scrambles. We felt no need for a rope going up or down. There was a small schrund to cross before the gully in July, which might be an issue at this time of year.

[hakioawa]

Rad said:

 

Is there a route there and if so which ridge?

 

Yes, as you approach the pyramid it is to climbers right. Its the righthand skyline from camp.

 

Is the rock any good on it?

Its very blocky, but the rock is solid

 

Is there pro to be found?

Tons. Bring lots on double runners and clip the rap stations. A few chocks and medium hexes (or cams if you want to lug them).

 

Is it worthwhile or should we just don our helmets, wait in line, and hope the yahoos don't drop anything on us?

 

Fun easy exposed ridge climb. Good times. The gully sux.

 

Finally, is there snow on the S face of the pyramid? (Despite the storm last week the recent sun would suggest to me it any snow may have melted.)

FYI, the friends I'd be taking up will not be capable of climbing steep verglas or ice.

Thanks much.

 

One note. Its easy. Soloable if you like (maybe 1 5.6 move). But PUT IN LOTS OF PRO for directionals!!! I didn't, which forced my folower to take a much harder. She fell becuase of it. No hard done, but I learned a lesson.