Recomend routes at Red Rocks-Joshua Tree

[A_What??]

Going to Red Rocks and J-tree in morning. Please recomend some routes for me. Am suffering tendon injury from the dreaded plastic so am planning on doing mostly trad routes. will probably be using silent partner unless I meet super hot belay bunny that I dream about often. Large overhangs and meandering routes make use of silent partner difficult so. Also recomend boulders in J-tree (hopefully tendons will cooperate)

Much obliged

Jordan Valente

Leavenworth, WA

[dbb]

There are some great cracks on The Blob, on The Old Woman, and Intersection Rock right at Hidden Valley--The main climbing area. Hands Off also came highly recomended (also in Hidden valley). Check out the Bartlet Guide for the local areas and do all the *** routes!

If your up for a long solo adventure, check out walk on the wild side. It's the longest route at JT (3 whole pitches!) The books sandbag it at 5.7+, but it's really about 5.9. The bolts are a little spacy too, about 20-25 ft. Bring some small cams and nuts as they are useful supplimental pro.

For bouldering, check out bouldering.com's mini guide to boulders at JT. some cool problems to try are: Gunsmoke - the classic JT traverse, White Rastafarian (if you can find it) behind hidden valley, and there are some really nice boulders over by the Dam Parking area.(which is where Gunsmoke is too)

 

[Gerg]

I was at Red Rocks a couple of weeks ago. Tunnel Vision goes at 5.7 trad and is about 7 pitchs. Makes a nice easy afternoon outing. There are a couple of chimneys with little/no protection, but fun nevertheless. Bring a headlamp for the 5th pitch as you tunnel behind a detatched pillar (5.3X). Figure 45 minutes on the approach from White Springs(?) and about 30 minutes for the walk off.

Have done Crimson Crysalis in the past and I highly recommend that climb too (would do it over Tunnel Vision). It goes at 5.8+, and is solid throughout. Mostly trad, although someone bolted the last one or two pitches unnecessarily. Climb tops out at about 800ft, on top of a pillar where you can unrope and walk around and rest before rapping off. You'll need 2 ropes for the rappel and be careful not to get your ropes stuck on the huecos. Count on an hour for the approach. It is a full day so get started early.

There are lots of other mulit-pitch climbs that go easier or harder. Take a look at Todd Swains book. His approach times tend to be sandbagged by about a third, i.e he says 30 minutes, most people take 40. Oh yeah, you probably want to look for South facing climbs that are in the sun as the shade gets pretty cold this time of year, especially if the wind kicks up. Have a great trip.

[Jason_Martin]

It's definately a bit cold on the shaded routes yet at Red Rocks.

For sunny long trad routes take a look at:

Johnny Vegas 5.7

Beulah's Book 5.9-

The Friar 5.9+

Solar Slab 5.6

Horndogger Select 5.8

Jubilant Song 5.8 with a Long Approach

Black Orpheus 5.10-

Levitation 29 5.11

Olive Oil 5.7

My personal favorite routes are Chrimson Chryslis 5.9, Frogland 5.8-, and Refried Brains 5.9. Unfortunately these routes are in the shade.

You don't really need a headlamp for Tunnel Vision, I've done the route a few times and you can see fine in the tunnel.

To the right of Tunnel Vision there is a REALLY good route called Group Therapy. At 5.7 I think it is the best route on Angel Food Wall.

Anyway, have a blast!

 

[rayborbon]

Jordan,

You are the biggest bum I know!

You'll have to let me know about your trip. I envy you! Later on..

-Ray

[scott]

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[This message has been edited by scott (edited 05-23-2001).]