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Posted

We hiked into Titcomb in a snow storm in one day, and out in one day...on one pack of gu, on our Helen trip. It was a marathon fer sure...my shoulder was all fucked up on the way out and I was in a world of suck!!!!

Helen is a sweet summit, which offers a good view of the imense glacier on the backside (east) of Fremont.

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Posted

We did a long traverse in the Winds in 1978. We took off from Green River Lakes up the Clear Creek Trail to the Cont. Divide and went south along the divide - easy cross country travel on mixed snow and scree. We climbed Bastion Peak and some other small stuff along the way. We spent a couple of days (based on faulty memory)going south along the Divide toward Grasshopper Glacier to Dinwoody Basin, where we spent the night before doing a 5.7 or 5.8 route up a gully on the North Face of Gannett. Two other of our group did the standard route which had one tricky move getting over the bergschrund. We topped out to find ourselves in the middle of an electrical storm, tossed all of biners, protection and metallic devices and found a place to hunker down while it blew over, then descended the standard route. We spent the last two nights by Pilot Peak and did an interesting corkscrew-like ascent of Pilot. I think Fred did first ascent. Spent a long day hiking out along Squaretop back to the cars.

Terry

Posted

Is that what they call tower one gully? How was the climb? I have heard the descent can be a bit tricky. Did you go over to the true summit?

Round trip in two days? Wow. Doable yes, but damn good job.

Posted

We spent five days in there, two hiking in, one climbing and two hanging out for good weather. We didn't do the death hike by choice, we both needed to keep our jobs in Bozeman.

The Tower 1 gully is a piece of cake. We simo climbed it in an hour. I led and my stonger partner followed, I placed one or two pieces of rock gear, french stepping the whole way.

The west ridge above the gully was pretty technical with lots of iced up cracks and stuff due to the weather. It took us from about 8:00 am until 5 in the afternoon. That's where I partialy dislocated my shoulder.

The descent was not too tough, but kept us on our toes. You go down a moderate east ridge with some fourth class down climbing. We simo downclimbed it, which was kinda spooky due to the new snow and the bonk factor. Then you head north and tropm down the prominant gully to the basin.

If you can get that link to work it shows the route pretty well.

Definately an awsom alpine route. I want to go back for Tower 1!

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