layton Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Jordon and I went and did a craptacular route that suxed so bad we didn't bother to finish it. Here;s the scoop. The drive is 8 fucking hours north of bellingham down an excruciatingly long logging road thru some of the scariest little nowhere town's i've seen in the Cloudwaller(sp?) range. It was rainging and we check out the N.face some some peak, it looked like crap so we drove to the Incisor's Edge route Jordon did a month ago. He said it was perfect granite, but i wasn't excited as we slogged up snot-slick boulders totally hungover from drinking 375mL each of Brandy and Alberta Premium respectively and smoking way too many smokes. Go to the base and oh shit, the granite was perfect! Jordon jammed up a beautiful 2" handcrack and dissapeared. All I heard was some grunting, rockfall, "falling!", and "Mike do you want to finish this pitch?" Fuck. Ok so after taping Jordan's bloody fingers I headed up and finished the pitch witch turned into runout supersandy ledges (rollerskates on hard slab), then I busted out my ice tool to do a wild lunge across a fissure to a dirt patch then to the sappy belay tree. Jordan's next lead was equally spectacular. Busting out the ice tools several times to negotiate the dirt seracs and pasting knifeblades into incipient seams on ultra compact rock (ie, no cracks). I followed and had to empty my shoes of the dirt that had become packed in. I dirtwalked around the corner to find a blank headwall of ultra compact rock covered in sand and dirt which lead to a 80 degree 30meter slab with notta crack to a massive summit rock cornice of loose rubble. We didn't eat enough Luna Bars to calm down our pussies so we bailed, drove the 8 hours home while gettign two flat tires, fixing one with tire sausage , and the Jordon discoved he had no oil in the engine for the whole drive. You should go do it, it was fun. "Angry Nipple Discharge" 2+ pitches. Grage II, 5.fun Quote
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