Minuteman TR

[layton]

I couldn't find any beta on this site so here;s the TR.

Aaron and I did it a couple days ago.

Nelson start is way too far left, look for the big L.facing corner and start below this. It's a full 60m pitch of fun fun climbing on crimpers, jugs and roofs. The next pitch suxs and traverses far left. The next pitch goes up the easiest way you can find to just below the 5.10 crack on the headwall. Aaron took a little FA variation in a very steep dirty corner to runout face to a root pull. So after the middle funk climb a super awesome easy 5.10is flake then crack to a horrid belay stance (a chevel tree hang). Then climb an overhanging 5.8 roof crack to a steep difficult 5.8 crack to a treed ledge. Awesome. Very sharp rock! Then go up and right up a corner, behind a block, and rope-drag it to the summit. Belay the 2nd over the summit, across a ridge to the rappel which is on a saddle connecting Concord towers unclimbed overhanging smooth E. face.

 

Do a shitty 60m rap pulliing loose blocks onto your rope to a horizontal tree rappel (some downclimbing to rapell). Do 2 shitty raps to the dirt.

 

Highly reccomended as a quick summit bag with three amazingly fun pitches. A lot of everything on a shorter route. Good day in the hills, a must do!

 

ps..Aaron runs it out

[bobbyperu]

couple more tings, i've started this route diffrent ways each time and what i found is this... just left of center is best...also the 10 crack is wobbly at first its actually a wide crck with a big loose flake jammed inside forming a crack on each side. what i like to do is throw a stopper on the rightside and a cam on the left, and equalize, thus stabilizing the flake inside the crack in the event of peel, then the crack narrows and becomes super cool smooth hand jammin up and left with good exposure and steepness, to the aformentioned tree belay underneath the roof. this next pitch is definatly one of the better 5.8 pitches around and should not be missed. undercling wildly out right with the whole route below your ass, and reach up and around the flake and pull yourself up and over into a sweet splitter hand crack that soars up the final sheild. awesome! also i've always rapped directly down the route... worked good 4 me nd saves the b.s. dirt gully, just be creful you dont pull yore ropes into the rope eating headwall crack on the first rap. difinatly a cool root in a good setting, easy and quick to get to, and adventuresome climbing...-bp

[layton]

I didn't notice the loose flake jammed in the crack. Either it's gone or I wasn't paying attenion. Felt solid, no hollow noises. We didn't rap the route cuz rapping from the top looked like hard rope pulling, and lower looked like rope stickin' territor. The 1st rap was our only loose rap, but the last tree rap was very scary since the tree is dead and it's almost freehangin.

[bobbyperu]

huh..? well i climbed up to the roofy 5.8 thing from a stance at the n.e. corner of the spire then up the wobbly thing to the left then up a splitter hand crack to a stance... are we talking aboot the same thing... anyway, and we topped out our roped pitches right where the solitary splitter backs off, then soloed around the corner and up to the tru summit...m that way our first rap was really dirct, and easy pullin' just stay away from the crack and maybe your ropes won't get jammed... i fuckin hate rappeling... who wants to do some exploring on the east face of concord??? i've eyed some shit and need someone down for some adventur...-bp

[gnibmilc]

I remember the loose flake. I called it the "one armed bandit" because when I pulled it out, I got a hand full of change. That was about 5 years ago. The rappels off the side down the gulley I didn't follow far enough into/across the gulley and ended up hanging off of a lame baby angle. A dulling descent.