Stuart N. Ridge question

[gravitywurks]

Is there likely to be snow available along the ridge itself for water? Haven't done the route before and wondering whether at this time of year you just need to carry a lot or if you can tank up between the glacier and the summit? Thanks!!

[Bug]

I haven't been up there this year so I can't answer your question.

Are you aware that you will have to go in from the Ingals side? The Stuart Lake th is closed.

[HernyG]

Our party just did the ridge on Aug. 8th - here is the current water scoop.

 

There is obviously water at Ingals lake, about an hour or two before the notch. There is also obviously snow on the Stuart Glacier that can be melted just before entering the couloir to the notch (a micro light stove and fuel can be lighter than water). At the notch bivy, there is a small lump of snow on the opposite side, in the descent couloir to the Ice Cliff glacier. After that, there is no easily accessible snow on the ridge itself until a small patch or two a couple hundred feet below the summit, one pitch after taking the rap to bypass the Gendarme - if you take that variation. In the Cascadian Couloir, on decent, there is a snow field. Surface water is also available at the creek before heading up Longs Pass.

 

Without a stove, or time and sunlight to melt the minimal snow left on the ridge, there may be no water available between Ingals lake and the creek - in other words, nearly the whole climb.

 

[bcollins]

Hey GW,

Did NR Aug. 9th. If you're well hydrated prior to the climb, and guzzle a full liter at Ingall's Lake, our party of 3 each made it with a 70 oz bladder no problem. Car-car 23 hrs via Gendarme.

[atomic]

Note that the temps can have a big effect on your state of hydration.

 

Last weekend was pretty mild in that area. Add full sunshine and you probably add a liter or two (at least I know I would need it).

[hillweasel]

right on bcollins...

 

how far did you get until it was night-climbing? any funny memories as you passed our little sliver (shiver) of a bivy spot?

 

Oh ya... you went the gendarme way. no loose gullies for you.

 

Rock on.

 

send me a note and let me know how life is treating you.

 

-hw

 

 

[gravitywurks]

Thanks to all for the beta. Looks like the cartridge stove goes in the pack and a little less water on the back.

 

Hey bcollins, congrats! That is some pretty fast moving! I wish I could do this climb in 23 hours but I'm guessing I would be only halfway up the ridge when the lights went out!

[bcollins]

Hey Weas! Was that you in your biv-sac snuggled in below the East summit? I remember saying something about you not sleeping as I literally stepped over your feet, it was rather windy. We got just below the snowfield before it was lights out. I thought our time was rather slow, we spent maybe 2-3 hrs on the Gendarme. We needed more gear and ended up aiding most of it. Up until then we simu-climbed most of the ridge. Aug. 9th was the best day of climbing I've had in 15 yrs of climbing in the NW. Next yr I plan on solo'ing most of it with one other partner, goal 18 hrs.