Sharkfin Tower Attempt

[AlpinistAndrew]

Myself and a friend attempted Sharkfin Tower on Wednesday. Perfect weather. Only problem was we started a little late. We didn't leave the trailhead until 9.45. The "trail" up tp Boston Basin was not as bad as the guide books suggested. It was steep in places but other than that it was cake. We got onto the Quin Sabe Glacier, found the approach gully (no snow in it). We climbed this loose gully to the upper snowfield and then aimed for a col, the wrong col. We went right instead of heading toward the face. We ended up at a col that you could look way down to the Boston Gl. and see the Southeast Face of Sharkfin. We were a little confused on where to start the southeast ridge, do you just climb up the face from the snowfield where the rap slings are apparent? well, we ran out of time from that mistake and rapped the the gully back to the glacier. the rock route looked good though. nice area, I enjoyed it.

[Mr._Natural]

We were a little confused on where to start the southeast ridge, do you just climb up the face from the snowfield where the rap slings are apparent?

 

I dont remember a snowfield at the top of the col. I remember trying to traverse over to the gully to access the start of the route but snow forced us up and gradually right until we got to the narrow ledge from which the route starts.

[AlpinistAndrew]

Well, fromt the glacier you go up the first gully and you get to the upper snowfield, below the peak. there is a col to the left and right of the tower. we went right and that didn't seem right. cause from the route description, it looks like you go on the face for a while. the main problem was just fiugring out where to get onto the rock, cause from the col we were at, where we could see the southeast face, it look ridiculously exposed. and just didn't seem right.

[Mr._Natural]

hmm, wrong col. You went to Sharkfin Col instead of the "narrow u notch on the east ridge". as per Beckey. if you had went up to the col on the other side and looked to your left you would have seen the route.

[AlpinistAndrew]

i am pretty sure we weren't at sharkfin col, cause apparently that requires some 5.8 moves and the col we got to was short and easy. i was looking at the route guide and pics, now i am thinking we were at the right place. for the very first pitch, is it rather exposed and do you start right at the top of the col, where you can see the southeast face. thanks for you help, i just wanna find out what we did wrong/right for another attempt. thanks.

[Raoul]

Alpinist Andrew,

I believe you were at the start of the route. Sharkfin Col is north of the tower so you would not have seen the SE Face from there. Do not climb directly up to the rap slings. At the proper col, facing north, step up and around to your right on easy ledges. Then climb up to where you are at the same level as the rap slings only further north. You've already done the hardest part by climbing up that loose gully. Sharkfin Tower is a fun climb with awesome views. Hope this helps.

 

-Raoul

[Bronco]

It sounds to me like you were definelty at the right place. The first pitch is a traverse around the corner to the base of the Southeast ridge proper like you were saying.

[AlpinistAndrew]

well thanks for the help guys. darn, wish we would have known. it just looked so damn exposed from there. it doesn't really matter i guess, we were way out of time anyway. now at least i know where to start the climb. thanks again.

[chelle]

Once you step around the corner there's a nice ledge to traverse over to the ridge. You can't see it from the notch. Better luck next time.