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Forbidden Peak


scot'teryx

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The east ridge definitely goes in a day. I soloed it earlier this summer in 9 hours car to car, and I'm no triathlete. Most of the time is taken by the approach; it's only 400 vertical feet from the beginning of the 5th class rock to the summit. Just be sure to reserve plenty of energy, patience, and focus for the east face descent route, which is tiresome and loose. Enjoy.

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We went to the West Ridge on Monday/Tuesday. As noted, there is a schrund halfway up the couloir. We stepped over onto the rock where it separated. The snow stepover is undercut by two feet and will be gone in a matter of days. It's questionable now. After going onto the rock you can move up a little and climb up back onto the snow. However, the block you step onto has a visible crack in it and could go. We saw several dramatic releases on J-Berg and Forbidden on a fairly cool day. There might be other options for getting back up onto the snow.

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