Forbidden Peak

[scot'teryx]

Heading up this Sunday to go for the East Ridge direct or just to do the West Ridge. Does the East Ridge "go in a day" moving at a moderately fast pace? Not sure if they take the same amount of time. Is there a bergshrund to cross like the west ridge?

 

Danka...

[philfort]

scott,

There's no bergschrund problems with the east ridge. The approach is straightforward up a 35 degree snow gully, then scree.

I think it would go in a day.

[Gaston]

The east ridge definitely goes in a day. I soloed it earlier this summer in 9 hours car to car, and I'm no triathlete. Most of the time is taken by the approach; it's only 400 vertical feet from the beginning of the 5th class rock to the summit. Just be sure to reserve plenty of energy, patience, and focus for the east face descent route, which is tiresome and loose. Enjoy.

[russ]

Did the w. ridge on Friday. Shrund is split - stepped across to ledges on the left and went up the slab.

[SPS]

We went to the West Ridge on Monday/Tuesday. As noted, there is a schrund halfway up the couloir. We stepped over onto the rock where it separated. The snow stepover is undercut by two feet and will be gone in a matter of days. It's questionable now. After going onto the rock you can move up a little and climb up back onto the snow. However, the block you step onto has a visible crack in it and could go. We saw several dramatic releases on J-Berg and Forbidden on a fairly cool day. There might be other options for getting back up onto the snow.

[jja]

scott, did erd on Saturday - it goes in a day. the west ridge colouir looked thin but couldn't tell how difficult it would be from our vantage.

[scot'teryx]

we are definately gonna due the east ridge, looks like a fun route