Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Jarred_Jackman

Stuart Traverse

Recommended Posts

I'm heading in for this ridge traverse soon and wondering if anybody that's done it would like to share info regarding difficulty of route and also good bivy sites on the ridge. I'm planning on summitting Stuart around 9:30 am then cruising as far as possible that day and sleeping wherever I find a good spot for two people. Hoping for two days in and out, going in Teanaway, up Stuart's West Ridge, and out snow creek trail to Leavenworth (never done this trail and the other trail is being worked on). Thanks

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Although I have never done the traverse, I gear getting over Argonaut from Sherpa is the most difficult part of the traverse.

 

I don't know what my info is worth since it is second hand. Sorry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

be sure to check out argos south face, its cooler than most other features along the way from sherpa to dragontail-imo... scope out the photo gallery for images from a traverse done earlier this season... many options for sleeping, also if trying to stay on the tru crest be prepared for much lichen on the north side, and steep, sometimes difficult route finding, as well as much up and down bizz, on the other hand the south side in this same section is more scrabling and hiking...also the traverse over colchuck and dragontail is kinda contrived, check out the many cool lookin features in the s. basin between these peaks... much rock, many cool 1-2 pitch routes to be scoped- have fun.. take photos-bp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Bobby, I checked out the photos. Thanks for the tip. I am planning on going really light. I've done Stuart's West ridge so I'm planning on not bringing a climbing rope but rather a rap line of 6 mm that could be doubled and climbed on if need be (obviously not recommended). Could you let me know if you went searching out the more difficult climbing or if you had to do it. Do you have any more info about specific difficulties encountered? I'm not trying to have you do the trip for me, I just don't want to take a bunch of unnecessary gear.

 

take care

Jarred

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well jarred, the s. face of argo looked to good to pass up, so we were definatly seeking out a little bit more difficult of climbing than we needed to do to get from one point to the other... also the tru crest provides much exposure(and much lichen) and some mid 5th ie; 5.7-5.9, the downclimbing will be challenging as well, or you could do the whole rapelling thing tho i hate rappin and would rather downclimb... the crest is most difficult from stuart over sherpa b/k there are less options... once to sherpa pass(east of sherpa) the south side is real easy the most difficulties being working around all the little trees and finding the quickest way to argo. once on the w. ridge area of argo things get real exposed directly on the crest, or you can head south down from the crest a little and its more mellow...once you see the s.face you caneither scramble down as we did to the base and climb any number of splitter crack systems up the golden face to the summit area( our line was somewhere around 5.9+) or climb easier up the western side near the crest to the summit, the climbing is continuosly cool along the eastern crest(5th) and we mostly traversed along the southern (cleaner) side. we did some n.side traversing near the end as we downclimbed off the ridge and down to check out all the cool lookin features in the basin below(s.) of colchuck... hope this info helps-bp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you'll be fine goin lite... you can make it pretty easy, and i thought the funnest part that we did was the argo area... rock is typically cleaner on the southern side... the crest is pretty licheny... there are spots to bivy, its fun stuff and will work you... pretty too thumbs_up.giffruit.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope, I'll be leaving the Ingalls Trlhead around 1-2am on the 15th.

 

Bperu, thanks, you're info is the best I've been able to get so far. Mostly I've just heard, "well, I have a friend who knows a guy who's done it, but I don't really know much about it all."

 

I'll post something when I get back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×