what would you do?

[mvs]

If you had just Sunday morning free, what would you do -

 

Chair Peak East Face

or

Guye Peak Improbable Traverse

 

and you live in a constrained reality where those are the only choices!

 

 

[Dru]

eat 50 GUs and drink 5 liters of water and do em both in a speed enchainment

[Gary_Yngve]

Eric8 and Slothrop enjoyed Guye.

 

http://www.bodenner.net/~rkb/climb/guye-jun-28-2003.php

[eric8]

guye definetly

[mvs]

50 GU packs...my body would never need to produce it's own mucus again...

 

that picture from the traverse is really sweet...Guye it is then!

 

[mvs]

Guye was great, thanks all! Only 3-4 pitches of "rock climbing," embedded in a lot of dirt scree and moss, but very worth the effort. The crack climbing on the pitch before the Improbable Traverse was great for it's solidity and steepness. The traverse had great exposure, especially as you round at least 2 corners wondering what's next.

 

I took a digital camera and got some pictures, but they don't compare to Eric8 and Slothrop's.

 

Above the traverse we alternated between trying to keep the climbing interesting and then scaring ourselves and giving in to piney ledge walks. One memorable short pitch I rated 5.7 X for delicate moves on a licheny vertical wall. This brought us to an alcove containing a fairly new chopped rope, which suited the mood (we carted it away).

 

We climbed to the north summit directly rather than dropping into the gully. I did an idiotic 5.9+ R lichen variation on the left, but Theron came up on the right with a 5.6 lieback.

 

We got home a few hours late, so it didn't quite meet the definition of a "morning trip," but the special person who cared was distracted by a piano and didn't mind. Whew!

 

Here are some pics, first is the route as we did it:

 

Here is a picture taken on the traverse looking back:

 

Here is Theron on top:

 

Note the disturbing, prehensile foot ( pre·hen·sile : adapted for seizing or grabbing):

 

Random self portrait on the road hike, very thirsty:

 

 

[slothrop]

Nice job!

 

That crack and the traverse are short, but so is the effort required to reach them. It's definitely a worthwhile day climb.