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My best friend and I did the standard route up Eldorado on Tuesday. We were originally planning on heading east, but the weather was so beautiful we stayed by the crest.

 

We began at 9:30 am and thought we would be pressed for time, but we summited at 2:45 and completed the trip in no rush at just before 7 pm.

 

Eldorado Glacier is lightly crevassed and thereafter, there are no real crevasses to negotiate. The snow conditions were soft so crampons were not needed. The summit ridge was exposed as expected, but we did not use our pickets. Conditions were warm other than the summit crest where winds made it feel chilly. My favorite part of the view was to Forbidden Glacier.

 

I definitely agree with the other posts that advise to do Eldorado in a day. The approach goes pretty fast with a daypack and the elevation gain, while massive, seems realistic in a day (10 to 12 hours) after completing the climb. However, camping on Inspiration Glacier would be a nice experience for sunset/sunrise purposes.

 

Next time I am going to bring a frisbee for the flats on the Inspiration Glacier!

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